i'm assuming its the fuse that the external oil pump is hooked up to. which is the fuse that triggers the oil light and kills the hot air.
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Yup I was told not to use a 20amp fuse. I blew three 10amps in a row. I think there is an issue with my pump I gotta call toan.
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Wait, you're the one that has the pump that's making extra noises correct? My fuse blew as well and i just upgraded to the 20 amp. The pump is just putting an extra load and needs the bigger amp to compensate.
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Nah that was Blucky87. I was told not to use a 20 amp because it can fry the wires. I wonder if it has something to do with using the ac. A friend of my said I should try wiring it directly to the battery but if the pump is bad then I won't when its working and I will risk destroying my turbo or worst. I am just glad its blowing on start up and not when I am driving.
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Wiring directly to the batter and putting in a relay to click the external pump on is ok as well. Those pumps come with a nice warranty so if you're willing to drop by ptuning or call them to rectify the issue, you can swap out the pump.

 

when did you upgrade your fuse to the 20amp? For how long?

 

When i got my car back from being finished at Ptuning in January, I drove directly to my paint shop for some work to be done. I went there a couple days later to do something and I went to move the car in the shop. I then noticed the oil light has been on. Since it was pretty chilly, i put on the heat and noticed no hot air. I didn't think about anything else but I called Toan. This was like after 20 min of letting the car warm up thinking that's why the heat wasn't coming on...

He told me to pull the fuse to check. Sure enough it was smoked. He said replace it and I would be good to go. I've done it then, and ever since then, i've never had an issue.

 

i guess it will be ok to use a 20 amp then if you have been using it that long and none of your wires melted. I had a 20amp in there for a few miles and everything was fine but when I was talking to my friend he said that I could melt my wires because I am sending too much amps through the wires that were made for 7.5. Maybe Ill try a 15 and see if that works. If that blows then I figure the pump is sending too much volts in those wires. If I wire it to the battery Ill have to get a voltage display for it so I can see if the pump ever stops working.

 

oil pump fuse blowing.....sounds like its becoming a reoccurring problem....

 

I had have not had a problem with fuse blowing since switching to a 10amp

 

Allan seems to have covered it pretty well so if you have any other concerns or questions, please don't hesitate to give us a call here at the shop.

-Brian

 

i guess it will be ok to use a 20 amp then if you have been using it that long and none of your wires melted. I had a 20amp in there for a few miles and everything was fine but when I was talking to my friend he said that I could melt my wires because I am sending too much amps through the wires that were made for 7.5. Maybe Ill try a 15 and see if that works. If that blows then I figure the pump is sending too much volts in those wires. If I wire it to the battery Ill have to get a voltage display for it so I can see if the pump ever stops working.
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Ok I just re read my post a couple pages back. I just got off the phone with toan...It's a 10 amp. not a 20. Have you tried a 10 amp? Everyone SO FAR that upgraded to the 10 amp has not had any issues anymore.

Toan said to call if you have issues after the 10 amp, because he has a solution.



Yea it's odd. But so far, anyone that upgraded to a 10 amp has been good to go..

 

Awesome. It appears upgrading to a 10 amp has been the solution.



Gotsta come by! need to buy some red bull for yall!

 

Im just posting up to help others in case they have my problem later on. I already put 3000miles on this kit in less than three months. I was fine on the 7.5 amp fuse for like 2800 miles it blew then I switched to the 10amp for about 200miles then that blew.