S2k nuts and bolts problems
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,095
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I'm going to be using thread locker, nord lock washers on the studs off the manifold on the bottom side of the turbine flange and then a class 10 stover nuts over top of it, in addition I've purchased grade 10 stench Allen head bolts and nord lock washers that will work to better secure the waste gate to the manifold. I might even double nut the studs with 2 stover nuts. I installed an 8 inch flex pipe into my test pipe right infer the donpipe.... if this thing moves after that I'm going nuts... it's a p fab manifold that at some point someone put studs into so it's sort of like a greddy manifold with studs that go through the holes on turbine flange and are secured with nuts underneath. I might even work some kind of safety wire around them too, but I don't know yet, I think a big part of this was the exhaust systems being so rigid and connected to the turbocharger, all that weight, swinging or bouncing of the exhaust during travel put all that weight and stress on the weakest part...a turbo held to a manifolds studs with what I was using before...regular as ace hardware nuts.
Im currently setting my car up for boost, thought i would share somethings that i have learned that can maybe help you. Nordlock washers are awesome for high heat and applications where vibrations from the engine like to shake things loose.
For my car i am running stiffer engine mounts and vibrating things loose is a downside i deal with in return for the benefits i get from the drivetrain not flexing as much.
Flex pipes and Flex bellows (My link) are awesome in areas where you need to allow some degree of movement etc.
I have ARP exhaust studs on my car to hold the manifold + nordlock locking washers before the ARP nut to secure the manifold to the cylinder head. I also purchased Nordlock locking washers for the compressor housing to make sure i dont have anything vibrating loose (because i plan on tracking the car).
Thread locker is great, but i feel for components that see high heat a more mechanical or physical barrier is a better choice. I have also seen other turbo guys run Nordlock washers + exhaust wire through bolts to make sure everything stays and remains snug.
here are some other solutions that might help you.
My link
My link
My link
^^ above link can from rotary guys whose exhaust components are known to get extremely HOT.
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Joined: Aug 2016
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I ended up running the nord lock washers with a class 10 locking/stover nut over that, it distorts itself as it is clamped down so that it locks down then because I had extra stud length with everything tightened down, I double nutted the stud with 2 locking stover nuts I had left over (they come in bags of three so after securing the 4 studs on the t3 exhaust flange I'd had two left) so I double nutted those kitty corner from each other on top of the lock nuts (which had the nord lock and used regular nuts to tighten on top of the other two lock nuts, tightened everything down REALLY TIGHT put it in the dyno and pulled 400 hp 300 ft/lbs on 14 psi on a precision 6262, p fab log manifold on cm and ran out of injectors at 1000cc since I'm running e85. So I need a rising rate regulator and to fab a completely new 3 inch done pipe and I can probably get to 450-475 but I daily drive this car and don't want to push it too far before I can get some arp headbolts and maybe a cometió gear gasket qbut I'm happy with it now. Actually had him pull a little boost out of 1st and second because it was just absolutely just blowing the tires off, and it still just losses traction and I'm actually a little weary of getting fully into the car on these cold Michigan roads and shit..it annoys me and to be honest scares me a little. So that's a good thing.. soon I'll get tired and need more power and it's time for like a 3 inch downpipe, rising rate regulator or bigger injectors... until then periodically making sure nothing werec%ř
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