S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

School me on head upgrades

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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 08:29 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by siadam,Oct 15 2010, 03:22 PM
I went ahead and got this.

Ferrea Competition Plus Standard Size Valves
Supertech Dual Valve spring(100lb), Titanium Retainers, Spring Seats, Valve Locks

I think that will do me. I am going to try and get the head pulled apart this weekend, and should have the parts end of next week, so I can get assembled and finish up the motor.
so what your telling us is you are gonna have one helluva bad ass motor.

good luck
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 09:36 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by siadam,Oct 15 2010, 02:22 PM
I went ahead and got this.

Ferrea Competition Plus Standard Size Valves
Supertech Dual Valve spring(100lb), Titanium Retainers, Spring Seats, Valve Locks

I think that will do me. I am going to try and get the head pulled apart this weekend, and should have the parts end of next week, so I can get assembled and finish up the motor.
Sounds like a well put together setup! How much did you end up paying for the stuff? You can PM me if you don't want to post it online.
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 07:55 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by dsddcd,Oct 15 2010, 07:18 PM
When I did my first I had the surface decked, valve job, IP springs and retainers, Ferrea Valves, Vavle Seals, hot tank, bead blast, gasket matched the intake and exhaust, deburred the runners, closed off the secondary air injection ports, had the cam bearing checked. The one thing I should have done that I did not do is replace the valve guides.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...f=142&t=728967

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...f=142&t=666881

I would have to guess that the entire labor bill was around $600 but that has been some time ago.
Appreciate that. I didn't order the seals or guides this time around, I'm going to see how it looks when assembled.

W//the amount of boost I'll be running, it should seal pretty well, lol.

I've been told by a few different reputable people that w/the low mileage on the head, it shouldn't be an issue.

Guess we will see.
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 07:58 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by siadam,Oct 16 2010, 10:55 PM
Appreciate that. I didn't order the seals or guides this time around, I'm going to see how it looks when assembled.

W//the amount of boost I'll be running, it should seal pretty well, lol.

I've been told by a few different reputable people that w/the low mileage on the head, it shouldn't be an issue.

Guess we will see.
I don't think you will have any issues, the guides should be good if there is no damage but the seals are cheap and easy so I always replace them
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 07:58 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by camuman,Oct 16 2010, 08:29 AM
so what your telling us is you are gonna have one helluva bad ass motor.

good luck
Thats the plan, just trying to watch the final bill though, tired of spending $$.
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 08:07 PM
  #36  
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As for the stock f22 head ...your plenty fine revving to 9k. I've been doing that for 30k+ miles with no issues. I guess they have upgraded valve stem keepers and retainers over the f20. I'd have to think 9500 isn't out of the question considering.
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 08:11 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Oct 16 2010, 08:07 PM
As for the stock f22 head ...your plenty fine revving to 9k. I've been doing that for 30k+ miles with no issues. I guess they have upgraded valve stem keepers and retainers over the f20. I'd have to think 9500 isn't out of the question considering.
I felt the same way, the more I've learned, BUT w/the added power heat/etc. If I had a mis-shift, or something were to happen, I feel confident I won't grenade a motor over dropping a valve now.

Cheap insurance imo, plus I can rev it out, which is nice.
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by siadam,Oct 16 2010, 08:11 PM
I felt the same way, the more I've learned, BUT w/the added power heat/etc. If I had a mis-shift, or something were to happen, I feel confident I won't grenade a motor over dropping a valve now.

Cheap insurance imo, plus I can rev it out, which is nice.
Are you running water/meth injection? That will take care of the added heat over stock on the valves. Power doesn't mean anything, just means you will produce more heat if its not corrected by another measure such as.... the injection. If building the head is cheaper then a meth kit... then sure go for that. But you will see allot more benefit everywhere else running the injection over just the built head.
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 06:10 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by jaundice,Oct 13 2010, 06:29 PM
Ok, I'm sure there is a reason this is dumb, but why not change your gearing? If all you are after is fewer shifts, up the boost and put in a different final drive rearend. Or switch to an AP1 transmission.
I bumped my f20 to a redline of 10,200 because when I do shift I want it to be higher in the rev range while entering the next gear. The higher the rpm's in the next gear the higher the hp/tq. in my case anyway.
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by ChefJ,Oct 17 2010, 07:10 AM
I bumped my f20 to a redline of 10,200 because when I do shift I want it to be higher in the rev range while entering the next gear. The higher the rpm's in the next gear the higher the hp/tq. in my case anyway.
I'd like to see the dyno with you going 10,200 rpm.

Is the power still climbing at that point?

I see it climbing at 9600 rpm and haven't gone further.
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