So I currently tune for my N/A car typically between 13.-13.5 and now I am starting off with the CT SC stock 7psi kit. I know its not ideal but for now I will be utilizing my VAFC2 for some fine tuning and Vtec control. I have no idea what AFR's I should be running with this set up. I know I need to be richer but at what rpm? can i run leaner at say 4k then 9k? There is an adjustable fuel regulator that comes with the kit to provide the added fuel requirments to make this work, but its got to be fairly crude. Later I may step it up and go with the stand alone when I get bored of this set up and fill my bank account back up. For now I'm running the stock kit with a VAFC so any advice or info on the best AFR and vtec settings would be helpful for me to start. Thanks guys!

 

i heard a lot of people aiming for 11.8 to around 12 air/fuels. i had my supercharged civic tuned and my tuner went for 12.3 air/fuels little lean. but i am higher climate though. good luck with it.

 

i would run 11.5-12 AF when in boost. With VAFC, you should be able to lower Vtec to take advantage of greater midrange torque. I see you have a 01, i would also upgrade the banjo bolts so that you don't over heat the pistons and score a bore. I don't advise using a VAFC to tune, because with the vortech black box, you aren't really tuning for the air seen, its more a of a guesstimate. However, some people have been successful with the setup.

 

Thanks man.

 

Ok thanks, some more info for you. I am getting the Comptech not Vortech, so not sure what the black box is, and am a little confused. Since I tune N/A I already have a Ugo wide band monitor, so I will be utilizing this to tune my VAFC, whether I use this or not i'm still seeing my actual AFR's right? No geustimating right? I will be street tuning my car this way.

Also when I tune my fuel curve with the VAFC or with any unit for that matter, do tune for boost? I mean as run say 12. AFR from say 3rpm - 6rpm or Vtec and then 6k and up start making richer like 11.5? basically tune my fuel curve ritcher as rpm/boost increases? or just tune flat 12. across the board etc? On my N/A set up I run about 13.5 pre vtec and then 6k and above I run about 13.3. Should I tune in a similer fashon just richer?

 

when your on the dyno do what makes power and gives a good curve. you might make more power with even richer mixture. my buddy made more power runnin 11.5 to 1 then at 12:1 on a dyno. dont rule it out. your not necessarily making more power at a leaner af.

feel it out when your at the dyno.

 

Alright, that makes sense. I was just going to street tune for now and get an initial set up idea, but guess I should get in to the dyno a bit sooner if I want to maximize my power. Thanks for the input guys, You mostly answered my question which was what AFR range I should be looking at. Sounds like I should be safe around 12 before I get into the dyno.

 

ok, well as long as you understand what is happening with the ESM on the comptech, you should be fine. Basically the ESM stops the ECU from seeing boost, so it blocks a certain voltage from being registered. Which is all positive pressure ranges on the map! If it didnt, the ECU would go into limp home mode, or just cut out!
Comptech gets around this by adding a variable rate FPR, which i think is 12:1. With every psi of registered boost to the FPR, the fuel pressure increases 12! So basically, the ECU isnt taking map sensor readings to add more fuel to the injectors, the fuel pressure regulator is doing it for it! So the ECU never really knows whats going on with the fueling! You then add a VAFC, that intercepts the map sensor voltage and gives back a different one to add or remove fuel, the ECU really has no idea whats going on! It just seems like too many things are left to chance with a piggyback system like the VAFC!
This isnt even taking into account what the ECU does to the timing charts when you make it think there is less air than there really is! Too much timing and your motor is gone! Then again, im sure there are people running around with the setup and havent had any problems! It's just not odds i want to work with!

 

[QUOTE=Soul Coughing,May 6 2008, 08:57 PM] ok, well as long as you understand what is happening with the ESM on the comptech, you should be fine. Basically the ESM stops the ECU from seeing boost, so it blocks a certain voltage from being registered. Which is all positive pressure ranges on the map! If it didnt, the ECU would go into limp home mode, or just cut out!