I got the SC in, and i thought i was good to go. It kicked over great, and no check engine light. I got a chance to drive it hard, and you can feel the increased HP difference from 4-6k, but at 6k rpms the car does not have the distinct vtec change over it has stock. You do not feel it, nor do you hear it!!! Also, the revs do not climb faster in vtec (which I think it should with a centrifugal blower). It does not bog, it just does no rev harder to redline. I can tell it is not as fast as it should be. I did read in a post that the black box for the MY04 from vortech may smooth out the vtec point, but I think I have a problem.

My oil level is good, so I believe the problem is in the wiring.

How do you guys solder the black box wires into the car's wires?? It is a really tight fit to work under the dash(I even took out the seat). The car's stock wires are very short (two inches maybe after you cut them), and I already made a wiring mistake which means the length of the stock wire in now even shorter. Do you actually solder under the dash?? I am worried about fussing with the cars wires too much that I run out of wire. The black box has lots of wire length, so no probs there.

1)Do you solder the wires to the crimp male female connectors they gave you in the kit, or did you guys use your own solder male/female connectors you bought from the store. Are there any secrets to soldering, I practiced on a few wires, and it kind of worked, but I just said the heck with it and crimped them in. I bought a 30 watt iron. It would be hard for me to do this under the dash.

I can see how the male/female connectors would be good because it would allow you to put the car back to stock wiring or swap out a black box fairly quickly if you wanted to.



2)Did you guys use the blue colored taps that Vortech gave you with the kit. They seem kinda cheap. Is there a better way to tap a wire. I have a MY04, so I need to only tap three wires (no MAP install in my year according to the install manual).

I followed the diagram and not the literature, so I think I made all the right connections. It seems that single color black box wires(ex: blue) end up running to the engine, where dual colored wires(ex:blue/red) end up running to the cars CPU. The only exception would be the yellow/black wire which is tapped into the blue wire in the 32P car wire cluster.

3)I also had to wire in the extra injector, so the manual says to just choose any two of the tanand red wires coming out of the box. I just connected the red wire from the injector and chose a red wire from the blck box wire bundle and connected them. I did the same for the tan one. These two wires then end up running through the firewall. Did I do this right??? I am guessing you AP1 guys do not understand this part because your kit does not need the 5th injector. Maybe an AP2 guy can chime in.


I will wait to see what you guys have for advice and try to solder the wires in. If this does make the car pull hard in vtec, I will then try to put the car back to stock by removing the SC belt and returning to stock wiring to see if she pulls in vtec.



This sc make some niose!!! I have a rattle that can be heard , but may be more noticable in the lower revs( idle). I guess that is what you get with these blowers. I tightened the belt, and the rattle is still there. It is not the whine you get from the blower( I hear that also), more of a clatter/rattle sound. It seams to surge every two second or so.


Any input would be appreciated, thanks
scott

 

well it was a bad connection at the vortech black box, the first wire I checked ended up being the one that did not have good contact. The funny thing is, I think this wire has something to do with the power steering also, because I lost power steering when the wire were disconected.

So I rewired it( I may try to solder them soon) and went for a ride. Boy this car pulls hard till redline.

I am officially a boost member with you guys now

 

glad everything worked out for you.

 

glad to hear it = ]

 

I have a rattle too. I first got it checked out by vortech and they dissasembled it 2 times and said it was fine. The rattle is the bearings. Some are loud some are not. Just make sure to check the oil level every other day, this thing eats when you first set it up. I would call vortech to have them check it out just in case. But in my situation its just the way mine is.....

 

The rattle does seem to be coming from the blower. It did this the first time we started the car and still rattles. It may die down a little at idle around 1k rpms, but it gets a little louder when the car gets to around 2k and then I think it rattles that way all the way to redline.

I am not near vortech, so taking off the blower and mailing it back to them seems like a bad summer to me. I may call them to let them know of my concern, perhaps they could document it, and if I have a major problems with it(bad bearings) in the near future there would be no questions asked.

 

I think that its a good decision to let them know. Like I said that was my concern too.

Worst case for the bearings is that the blower needs to be replaced or fixed.

Mine goes away barely when I go to higher rpms. But I understand your concern. You get used to it after a while.