I know of another member who had this manifold and had it repaired.

 

The weld helped a bit, but there is still a crack that is beyond our reach with the manifold still on the car. The crack also went through the WG flange on one side. Im just going to get a new manifold & be done with it.


This maybe a silly question, but what material is the compressor cover on a precision turbo.. alum or steel? I want to weld on an 90 deg angle so i dont have to use the 90 silicone coupler anymore.

http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=1280

 

Alum.

 

Any theories on how my manifold cracked? Whats the common denominator in these cases?
I didnt do the work myself last time, but Im sure as hell doing it myself this time.

 

Heat cycling, vibration and stress all lead to the fatigue and eventual failure.

That is what happens when you get a poor casting or improperly designed peice.

I was measuring temperatures from 800F at light cruising to 1700F+ during a pull on the highway on my IP manifold.

 

I see, I don't know how many miles my old manifold had on it since I got the kit used from what turned out to be a shady seller.
Hopefully this brand new one will hold up until I can get a nice PFab tubular or something.

 

for your power level, just get the IP cast manifold.

 

I got another revhard, brand new

Pretty sure I would have to notch the frame rail to fit my turbo with the IP mani, and modify my downpipe

 

You probably would have to notch it but its not really a big deal. Also the inline manifold is a better design, it has small runners.