just get a competent tuner and you'll be fine. also dont get a greddy kit and dont get a log manifold

 

Sounds like a rookie tuning.... My car n an aem v1 took 2 hours start to finish with 4 power pulls.... That's all it took to get it perfect !!!!! Cuz my tuner knew his shit....

Lee

 

when mase tuned my car with the mase kit he tuned it with like 5 pulls. i'm still using that map with some slight tweaks when i switched to a pfab elm setup. the guys on that forum talking shit on hondas and open deck dont understand the f20c. 400+whp is easy with 12psi and lots of guys go 20k+ miles with that power on 80k mile engines

 

That first timing map is all over the place. 23 degrees advance with 10psi? Isn't stock advance at 0 roughly 23 degrees?


Boost cut should have been set, IMO. Would there really be ANY downside to setting it? Even at 18-20psi?

I had sort of the same thing happen to me (set boost cut to the max reading of oem sensor, which ended up being more than the sensor actually read).

Now I have at least some cracked rings, and possibly a cracked piston.

I don't believe anybody can react to the car as quick as boost cut reacts.

 

Bring er on down , Evans shop has like 5,000HP worth of S2000's,lol

 

If the wastegate hose popped and it suddenly gave max boost, often 30 psi or more, it will kill most engines.
Good or bad tuner, these things melts in seconds, not even sure boost cut reacts fast enough.

Even the Motec and Pectel WRC cars over here have mechanical protection for this, that reacts linear with the boost increase. Example:



The ugly part is a flange, you weld it to the intake manifold.

 

He missed some of the basic rules of tuning with AEM like boost cuts plus conservative timing and fuel for things you haven't yet tuned. If he had done that, a WG line melting probably wouldn't have blown your motor. If he's having trouble tuning with AEM, I can't believe he's any good on a LS motor. IMO, HPTuners and EFI Live are quite a bit more complicated and challenging than AEM.

Tim

 

"tuning is tuning. I can f@#kin tune these cars in my sleep. Im the best tuner in the area." Those are his exact words

 

First thing, sorry for your loss. Regardless of fault, you're out of a motor and that sucks.

From where I sit this is a wash...you and the tuner have equal blame for this. Its his fault for not setting a boost cut, but your fault for the vacuum line melting. I would take whatever assistance he's offering and do what you can to get back up and running. All the talk about too much timing and and aggressive map is beside the point. Like he said in that thread, if the line had not have melted (or if he would have set a cut like he was supposed to), you'd probably be on the road smiling right now. No use and getting upset and trying to place blame at this point...what's done is done. For the record - my personal opinion is he is being more than generous. You pay a tuner to tune, not fix vacuum lines. Its your responsibility to make sure the car is mechanically sound when it arrives for the tune, not his. A good tuner will look over everything before hand to make sure there's nothing glaring that will cause something like this, but again its not his responsibility.

 

Don't know your wastegate / boost controller setup. If there is no boost pressure to the wastegate to keep it close (broken line), you are running wastegate spring pressure? You can't boost higher than your spring pressure except for boost creep?

It is tricky to setup up the boost controller initially. You don't know how the car will respond to boost due to the wiring and boost line configuration. It is just irresponsible to not set boost fuel cut and be sure the boost spike is controlled before doing WOT runs. I have hit over boost fuel cut (15psi) a couple times before getting the settings right.