Nice start Zack. Going to delete the booster as part of your tuck?

 

I have given it some thought. But like others that have gone through this... I would rather not sacrifice performance. If I knew more about it and could figure out a way to keep pedal feel and clamping force then I would! (if you have any knowledge that would be great!)

 

For now he can just log the voltage and do a math calculation in the logging software for fuel pressure. I always recommend checking the tune when upgrading firmware. There is no telling what could change...aem is known for having bugs here and there with new firmware releases. For instance when i concerted to the new firmware my o2 feedback quit working correctly. No option in the software made sense as to why this was happening and even when doing a cal comparison nothing was different. I ended up copying every table and setting from the old cal into a v2.02 firmware cal and it worked just fine.

 

Interesting. Did you convert manually or use a built in script? Were you converting from 01v24 to 02v02? Sucks that you had to copy/paste lol What a headache.

 

sometime during this.... winter build i will add in the sensor and will get a retune. front mount modification and intake alone will change things.

I measured up all the lines for the ABS tuck. how onto tucking the harness a bit better and mocking up the heater control stuff in the coil area.

 

got this guy in today. pretty piece!



im pretty set on painting the block with por 15. anyone else chime in on a different product or method?

 

Nice start on the crossmember. That's how I cut mine. Much easier to pry from the inside (after drilling out the spot welds). Any reason why you're leaning towards a rust protection paint? Our blocks are aluminum

 

haha thanks! seems like from what I read that the por 15 stuff will adhere a bit better to the block? I keep asking what other have done because I have no clue what is best!

 

I'm sure it would stick to your block without issue. It's main function is to mitigate rust (iron oxide), which is why I was curious. What size bar are you going to use for your new crossmember?

 

the plan is to use a triangle piece that will be bolted to each side via a heavy duty countersunk flange. I just want something different. everyone seems to be putting a round pipe there. The car is scattered all over the place and I have so many directions to go to keep the build moving. Im waiting on a buddy to loan me his hoist to yank the motor out first.

oh and my hardtop is arriving tomorrow