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No one said that its lacking. It is decent out of the box, but I have found its further enhanced with a larger TB, and of course further yet with some tuning and a lightweight flywheel. Some may find it too responsive after these mods in some conditions, if not used to it.
You can also adjust your throttle cable for more response
You can also adjust your throttle cable for more response
Sort of. I've done that in the past, and it doesn't actually effect the response of the engine, it just makes the throttle more sensitive to being on/off which I don't find much value in, and sometimes I found annoying. Having a tad of free play in the throttle pedal isn't such a bad thing. Especially if your big footed.
Exactly. When we think of throttle response, usually its the immediacy of how things respond when you press the throttle more. Its not so much about response to first pressing it, like from a dead stop.
Adjusting throttle cable play can only have an effect on response to when you initially press from an off throttle condition. Once you have the pedal pressed any amount, cable play is not relevant.
That there AUT radiator cooling plate looks like a nice affordable option, vs the expensive Spoon/J's snorkel. Unless there's a good replica of the Spoon/J's snorkel.
Pics of my mod done over 12 years ago can be seen in the link in post #80 above. As you can see, I used the AUT and a bunch of other things, including vanes mounted behind the grill to force air up into the mouth of the AUT with the car's speed. I don't think one could use a snorkel AND an AUT. I don't think things would fit. And it would be redundant and would block the function of the AUT. Some members here were concerned that the vanes behind the grill would starve the radiator of needed air, causing over heating. This has never happened, even when I was in Oklahoma in summer temps of 110! Before I did this mod, I was thinking about those alleged CIAs that hang a bare filter down low in the engine bay. I was concerned about hydrolock. And I was also concerned about how hot it was down there at the air intake point. So I hung a thermometer in the approx location where the intake point would be with one of those, and drove about 3 miles with the engine cold at the start. I looked at the thermometer then and it was maxed out at 130 degrees. It was an old mercury thermometer, and the glass was broken, indicating a temp much higher than 130. Gentlemen, there simply is no "cool air" in that location! When I lived in Oklahoma, this mod was great at preventing heat soak in the very hot summers there, as much as could be done with the hot outside air. I now live in Colorado at 7400' elevation and hot outside air isn't a problem. But thin air is. I think (but cannot prove) that the ram air function of my mod is helping me with this problem as well.
Exactly. When we think of throttle response, usually its the immediacy of how things respond when you press the throttle more. Its not so much about response to first pressing it, like from a dead stop.
Adjusting throttle cable play can only have an effect on response to when you initially press from an off throttle condition. Once you have the pedal pressed any amount, cable play is not relevant.
Just did the cut out for the Air Box on my 2007 S2000, wanted to share my method of cutting out the baffle which worked well. Using an Oscillating tool with a cutting blade I was able to get a complete cutout while the Air Box was still in the car. I understand that you will get a 5 WHP gain and better gas mileage with just this change.
Gutted stock air box, AUT cooling plate, K&N OEM style filter, Samco intake hose, wrapped OEM header and a Berk header back my car made 219 HP on the OEM ECU last Friday.
Car is an '00 w/ 71K miles on it.
AEM EMS V1 netted another 15-20 ft/lbs of torque over the stock ECU but peak HP remained the same.