airbox mod
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 20,983
Likes: 188
From: in my garage
The newer stuff doesn't require "wetting" to work with but it probably wouldn't hurt. The new stuff has no fiberglass in it = no itching. You can use gloves but they kinda get in the way. My fingertips were black but it came off easily with hand soap.
I mounted mine to the stairs in my basement, at just below eye level it was easy to work with and get nice and tight. Keep your work area well lit. I went from the engine side to the collector. Did each short tube first. Lots of videos on YouTube giving you some tips and trick. Use zip ties when you wanna start a wrap or take breaks. My header was wrapped once before but grinding off the OEM heatsheild tabs will take considerable time. The wrap itself could take just a couple hours depending on your patience, OCD, and determination. I did mine over 2 days when I had the time.
Like I said, this is the second time mine has been wrapped, but I will be using the Thermo-Tec Hi-Temp Sealer / Paint on mine hoping to get some more durability out it this time. Thermo-Tec prodcuts can be found at Auto-Zone stores.
PS: I used 1" becuase that's what I use before. I think it's a little easier to get a good looking job done with 1" vs. 2". I did use 2" when I did the 3" downpipe on the wife's BMW though.
I mounted mine to the stairs in my basement, at just below eye level it was easy to work with and get nice and tight. Keep your work area well lit. I went from the engine side to the collector. Did each short tube first. Lots of videos on YouTube giving you some tips and trick. Use zip ties when you wanna start a wrap or take breaks. My header was wrapped once before but grinding off the OEM heatsheild tabs will take considerable time. The wrap itself could take just a couple hours depending on your patience, OCD, and determination. I did mine over 2 days when I had the time.
Like I said, this is the second time mine has been wrapped, but I will be using the Thermo-Tec Hi-Temp Sealer / Paint on mine hoping to get some more durability out it this time. Thermo-Tec prodcuts can be found at Auto-Zone stores.
PS: I used 1" becuase that's what I use before. I think it's a little easier to get a good looking job done with 1" vs. 2". I did use 2" when I did the 3" downpipe on the wife's BMW though.
Last edited by freq; Mar 17, 2018 at 06:23 AM.
Community Organizer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 31,070
Likes: 566
The newer stuff doesn't require "wetting" to work with but it probably wouldn't hurt. The new stuff has no fiberglass in it = no itching. You can use gloves but they kinda get in the way. My fingertips were black but it came off easily with hand soap.
I mounted mine to the stairs in my basement, at just below eye level it was easy to work with and get nice and tight. Keep your work area well lit. I went from the engine side to the collector. Did each short tube first. Lots of videos on YouTube giving you some tips and trick. Use zip ties when you wanna start a wrap or take breaks. My header was wrapped once before but grinding off the OEM heatsheild tabs will take considerable time. The wrap itself could take just a couple hours depending on your patience, OCD, and determination. I did mine over 2 days when I had the time.
Like I said, this is the second time mine has been wrapped, but I will be using the Thermo-Tec Hi-Temp Sealer / Paint on mine hoping to get some more durability out it this time. Thermo-Tec prodcuts can be found at Auto-Zone stores.
PS: I used 1" becuase that's what I use before. I think it's a little easier to get a good looking job done with 1" vs. 2". I did use 2" when I did the 3" downpipe on the wife's BMW though.
I mounted mine to the stairs in my basement, at just below eye level it was easy to work with and get nice and tight. Keep your work area well lit. I went from the engine side to the collector. Did each short tube first. Lots of videos on YouTube giving you some tips and trick. Use zip ties when you wanna start a wrap or take breaks. My header was wrapped once before but grinding off the OEM heatsheild tabs will take considerable time. The wrap itself could take just a couple hours depending on your patience, OCD, and determination. I did mine over 2 days when I had the time.
Like I said, this is the second time mine has been wrapped, but I will be using the Thermo-Tec Hi-Temp Sealer / Paint on mine hoping to get some more durability out it this time. Thermo-Tec prodcuts can be found at Auto-Zone stores.
PS: I used 1" becuase that's what I use before. I think it's a little easier to get a good looking job done with 1" vs. 2". I did use 2" when I did the 3" downpipe on the wife's BMW though.
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 8,755
Likes: 1,858
Sorry for this newb question. Why do you need to grind off the original heat shield tabs? You can't just tape around them, and retain the stock heat shields?
I realize heat shields may be redundant once you wrap, but I'd prefer to look stock and hide the header (and the wrap) as much as possible.
I realize heat shields may be redundant once you wrap, but I'd prefer to look stock and hide the header (and the wrap) as much as possible.
Community Organizer
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 20,983
Likes: 188
From: in my garage
QTY ITEM DESCRIPTION PRICE TOTAL
2 1" X 50' Graphite Black Wrap - Part# 11021(11021) $37.82 $75.64
1 V-8 Snap Strap Kit (8-9" & 4-18") - Part# 13101(13101) $37.82 $37.82
Subtotal: $102.11
Sales Tax: $0.00
GRAND TOTAL (USD): $102.11
2 1" X 50' Graphite Black Wrap - Part# 11021(11021) $37.82 $75.64
1 V-8 Snap Strap Kit (8-9" & 4-18") - Part# 13101(13101) $37.82 $37.82
Subtotal: $102.11
Sales Tax: $0.00
GRAND TOTAL (USD): $102.11
Community Organizer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 31,070
Likes: 566
Community Organizer
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 20,983
Likes: 188
From: in my garage
There you go.
I didn't buy the paint at first but I decided I'd try it. I had a $25 gift card for Auto-Zone and they had the sealant / paint in stock so I bought it there.
As far as grinding off the OEM tabs, I did it so long ago I cna hardly remember how it was done but I know an angle grinder was used.
FWIW, I haven't used the battery heat shield in FOREVER and I run an 8 year old Optima Yellow Top w/o issues. This has been a track only car for the last two years so it has seen some heat.
I didn't buy the paint at first but I decided I'd try it. I had a $25 gift card for Auto-Zone and they had the sealant / paint in stock so I bought it there.
As far as grinding off the OEM tabs, I did it so long ago I cna hardly remember how it was done but I know an angle grinder was used.
FWIW, I haven't used the battery heat shield in FOREVER and I run an 8 year old Optima Yellow Top w/o issues. This has been a track only car for the last two years so it has seen some heat.
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 4
From: Durango, Colorado
Air Intake mods.
Somewhere in the bowels of this forum, dating back to 2006 or so, is a description of something called the "Dolebludger mod" for a cool air intake on these cars. I tried, but couldn't find the full description. But basically, just removing the top on the air box can actually cause loss in power as it can make the intake air even hotter. My mod consisted of installing an AUT radiator plate in place of the stock one (the AUT connects with the stock intake making a snorkel). Then insulating the point where that connected to the stock intake above the radiator top. Then sealing the air box. Then installing some aluminum fins between the grille and the radiator to deflect air upward into the AUT/snorkel. Then installing tubing from the passenger side of the air box to the fender well, and making a "flapper valve" out of sheet aluminum inside the air box that would open at low speeds and would close at higher speeds. The idea was to allow air to be sucked from the fender well at low speeds, but to allow a bit of "ram air" to happen at higher speeds. As I am "Dolebludger" I have this mod on my 2001 ap1, and it worked quite well in preventing the heat soak in the extreme summer heat in Oklahoma. Even though I now live in Colorado, I still have the car, the mod is still in place, and it is still working very well. I know that this mod causes ambient air to be under pressure in the air box, as the first flapper valve I made to shut off the opening into the pax side fender well under pressure was made from a flattened beer can, and it folded and was sucked into the fender well at speed. Thicker aluminum sheet did the trick. If you do this mod, what you will have is a "poor man's supercharger" as well as a cool air intake. If you do this mod, I do not recommend a K&N air filter. Significant pressure does build up in the air box and the K&N allows too much junk to get into the intake, so stick with a stock filter. If you want to do this mod and have any questions, email me at richhruth@aol.com.
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 234
From: In BOOST
Somewhere in the bowels of this forum, dating back to 2006 or so, is a description of something called the "Dolebludger mod" for a cool air intake on these cars. I tried, but couldn't find the full description. But basically, just removing the top on the air box can actually cause loss in power as it can make the intake air even hotter. My mod consisted of installing an AUT radiator plate in place of the stock one (the AUT connects with the stock intake making a snorkel). Then insulating the point where that connected to the stock intake above the radiator top. Then sealing the air box. Then installing some aluminum fins between the grille and the radiator to deflect air upward into the AUT/snorkel. Then installing tubing from the passenger side of the air box to the fender well, and making a "flapper valve" out of sheet aluminum inside the air box that would open at low speeds and would close at higher speeds. The idea was to allow air to be sucked from the fender well at low speeds, but to allow a bit of "ram air" to happen at higher speeds. As I am "Dolebludger" I have this mod on my 2001 ap1, and it worked quite well in preventing the heat soak in the extreme summer heat in Oklahoma. Even though I now live in Colorado, I still have the car, the mod is still in place, and it is still working very well. I know that this mod causes ambient air to be under pressure in the air box, as the first flapper valve I made to shut off the opening into the pax side fender well under pressure was made from a flattened beer can, and it folded and was sucked into the fender well at speed. Thicker aluminum sheet did the trick. If you do this mod, what you will have is a "poor man's supercharger" as well as a cool air intake. If you do this mod, I do not recommend a K&N air filter. Significant pressure does build up in the air box and the K&N allows too much junk to get into the intake, so stick with a stock filter. If you want to do this mod and have any questions, email me at richhruth@aol.com.
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,690
Likes: 331
From: Sacramento