Lowered Battle Stance
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1443812875' post='23764580
Just for reference on a non camber corrected s2k. At nearly -2" drop/13" fender to hub. My rear camber is maxed positive -2.5, that’s with minimal .10 toe per side. Can’t reduce the camber any further. The front camber maxes at -2.5 with 6.8 caster and 0 toe. I can get less camber but the car works better there, so this is my track and street alignment I settle with. If I lower the car anything further, it would compromise adjustment range and best handling. Anything lower then -2" and I wouldn’t be able to drive it on the street either so its the best compromise anyway.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
0 rear toe is kinda weird. But that would actually allow you more camber adjustment in the positive direction.
Rear suspension:
Stock rear toe is highly positive for AP1's, and slightly positive for AP2's. That positive toe will wear tires more quickly than 0...but will create more EVEN tire wear with negative camber. So...in a way, it makes tires last longer to combine positive toe and negative camber. But...with positive toe, you reduce the amount of available positive camber adjustment.
When toe goes positive (toe IN), camber goes negative and vice versa. Thats how the stock REAR curve works.
I wouldn't recommend 0 toe out back unless you're aware that the car will be less stable, and will be slightly more oversteer prone.
Front suspension:
0 toe is normal, and its about what you want.
Rear suspension:
Stock rear toe is highly positive for AP1's, and slightly positive for AP2's. That positive toe will wear tires more quickly than 0...but will create more EVEN tire wear with negative camber. So...in a way, it makes tires last longer to combine positive toe and negative camber. But...with positive toe, you reduce the amount of available positive camber adjustment.
When toe goes positive (toe IN), camber goes negative and vice versa. Thats how the stock REAR curve works.
I wouldn't recommend 0 toe out back unless you're aware that the car will be less stable, and will be slightly more oversteer prone.
Front suspension:
0 toe is normal, and its about what you want.
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,841
Likes: 1,705
From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
Also, you can't adjust camber or toe or caster individually without shifting or affecting another angle. Even with a camber joint, you have to adjust on a curve. You're just shifting the static curve to manipulate one movement more than the stock static curve.
Dynamic curve changes a bit too because if geometry of components is being altered (arm position changes because you're adding longer ball joints). But static curve by itself won't affect the dynamic curve slope.
You'll still need a carefully done, full alignment after installing or modifying any suspension component or positions.
Dynamic curve changes a bit too because if geometry of components is being altered (arm position changes because you're adding longer ball joints). But static curve by itself won't affect the dynamic curve slope.
You'll still need a carefully done, full alignment after installing or modifying any suspension component or positions.
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,841
Likes: 1,705
From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
Using lower ball joints (RCA's) that are longer will lower the car. You're moving the spindle upward and LCA downward. The wheel attaches to the spindle. I wouldn't use only rear RCA's though. The car will oversteer.
Using upper ball joints for adjustment is more simple. Press old joints out. Press new plates in. Torque to 135LB or what it says in the instructions. Mark the position of the joint with a marker in case it slips.
Using upper ball joints for adjustment is more simple. Press old joints out. Press new plates in. Torque to 135LB or what it says in the instructions. Mark the position of the joint with a marker in case it slips.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Using lower ball joints (RCA's) that are longer will lower the car. You're moving the spindle upward and LCA downward. The wheel attaches to the spindle. I wouldn't use only rear RCA's though. The car will oversteer.
Using upper ball joints for adjustment is more simple. Press old joints out. Press new plates in. Torque to 135LB or what it says in the instructions. Mark the position of the joint with a marker in case it slips.
Using upper ball joints for adjustment is more simple. Press old joints out. Press new plates in. Torque to 135LB or what it says in the instructions. Mark the position of the joint with a marker in case it slips.
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,841
Likes: 1,705
From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
SPC upper ball joints side back and forth. You can get a range of like +/- 3 degrees or something. Or +/- 1.5 degrees per flip. I forget. Its quite a bit.
They have a negative adjustment and positive adjustment flip, as well as a large sliding window to degree in your adjustment. So...there's a shitload of adjusment.
Rear RCA joints don't slide. I believe front RCA's do slide.
But...adjusting either will automatically force toe and caster to change.
They have a negative adjustment and positive adjustment flip, as well as a large sliding window to degree in your adjustment. So...there's a shitload of adjusment.
Rear RCA joints don't slide. I believe front RCA's do slide.
But...adjusting either will automatically force toe and caster to change.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
SPC upper ball joints side back and forth. You can get a range of like +/- 3 degrees or something. Or +/- 1.5 degrees per flip. I forget. Its quite a bit.
They have a negative adjustment and positive adjustment flip, as well as a large sliding window to degree in your adjustment. So...there's a shitload of adjusment.
Rear RCA joints don't slide. I believe front RCA's do slide.
But...adjusting either will automatically force toe and caster to change.
They have a negative adjustment and positive adjustment flip, as well as a large sliding window to degree in your adjustment. So...there's a shitload of adjusment.
Rear RCA joints don't slide. I believe front RCA's do slide.
But...adjusting either will automatically force toe and caster to change.
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,841
Likes: 1,705
From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
The joint is offset from center.
They flip one way to adjust from neutral to positive. (0 to +1.5 degrees ADDITIONAL degrees from stock). If your stock adjuster is fully out at -2, you can flip them to their positive adjustment position and get it adjusted out up to -0.5, for example.
They flip the other way to adjust from neutral to negative. (0 to -1.5 ADDITIONAL degrees of adjustment from stock).
Choose the side you want. Insert the joint. Then slide the whole thing in or out. Then tighten to 135LB-FT or whatever it says in the directions.
You'll see.
They flip one way to adjust from neutral to positive. (0 to +1.5 degrees ADDITIONAL degrees from stock). If your stock adjuster is fully out at -2, you can flip them to their positive adjustment position and get it adjusted out up to -0.5, for example.
They flip the other way to adjust from neutral to negative. (0 to -1.5 ADDITIONAL degrees of adjustment from stock).
Choose the side you want. Insert the joint. Then slide the whole thing in or out. Then tighten to 135LB-FT or whatever it says in the directions.
You'll see.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
The joint is offset from center.
They flip one way to adjust from neutral to positive. (0 to +1.5 degrees ADDITIONAL degrees from stock). If your stock adjuster is fully out at -2, you can flip them to their positive adjustment position and get it adjusted out up to -0.5, for example.
They flip the other way to adjust from neutral to negative. (0 to -1.5 ADDITIONAL degrees of adjustment from stock).
Choose the side you want. Insert the joint. Then slide the whole thing in or out. Then tighten to 135LB-FT or whatever it says in the directions.
You'll see.
They flip one way to adjust from neutral to positive. (0 to +1.5 degrees ADDITIONAL degrees from stock). If your stock adjuster is fully out at -2, you can flip them to their positive adjustment position and get it adjusted out up to -0.5, for example.
They flip the other way to adjust from neutral to negative. (0 to -1.5 ADDITIONAL degrees of adjustment from stock).
Choose the side you want. Insert the joint. Then slide the whole thing in or out. Then tighten to 135LB-FT or whatever it says in the directions.
You'll see.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post