I have a Saner bar (regretfully), and I just bought 4 new 255/40-17 RS-3's on cheap 17x9's.

 

Why do you say regretfully? I thought they are one of the best stiff bars for our cars.

 

The Saner bar is a cheap bar that is stiff and adjustable. However, it's uber-heavy, and the end links suck. After just a couple weeks, the end links start sqeaking and rattling. You can tighten them up a few times, but you eventually have to replace them with better components. Depending on what you replace them with, you'll have to replace those every 6 months to a year.

 

Because this is a gernby post, expect lots and lots of information. That's pretty sweet you got Ohlins on your car. With all your other projects I don't know how you're going to have time to dial in double adjustable coilovers. One obsession at a time man.

 

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=302

AST 5100 = Single adjustable
AST 5200 = Double
AST 5300 = Triple

 

Wow this is simply the best coilover review and explanation for the height setup... very technical i think I need a second or third read to understand it fully.

I assume you have stayed with the recommended 2mm preload settings right?


Whats your final adjustment measured and between the spring preload adjuster to the height adjuster? So other people could base on your setup when they wants to setup their Ohlins DFV initially.
Car ride height looks great!

So how much did you raise the front here? between the spring preload adjuster to the height adjuster?


So what is your final setting measured between the spring preload adjuster to the height adjuster after the corner balance?

 

The Ohlins DFV's are single adjustable, but the single adjustment supposedly alters bump and rebound.

 

According to Vorshag, the 4100 and 5100's have been replaced by the 4150's.

 

Thanks.

If you look through the 1st post again, you'll see that I wrote a couple paragraphs about setting the preload. I did not use the recommended preload. I calculated the amount of preload to add to the front and rear using the spring rates, damper travel, and esitmated corner weights. The front springs wound up needing way less preload than the rears, but due to the limitation of the rear height adjustments, I couldn't preload the rear as much as I wanted without also increasing ride height.

I wound up raising the front about 3/8" more after that picture. I'll take another picture...

I also recalculated the preload in order to include my weight. Since I weigh about 230 lbs dressed, I calculated that if I had been sitting in the car, the corner weights would have increased like this:

+65.5 lbs :: +22 lbs (left front :: right front)
+107 lbs :: +35.5 lbs (left rear :: right rear)

By adding these values to the corner weights measured by the shop, I determined that my cross weight would be 51.0%:
755 :: 724
817 :: 726

I put together a basic spreadsheet to calculate a 50.0% cross weight, which was.
770 :: 709
802 :: 740

Since both front fenders were exactly at the same height, but my left rear was slightly taller than the right rear, I decided that the obvious choice would be to simply increase the preload on the front left. By adding 15 lbs of preload to the front left, it would raise a small amount, but as soon as I sit in the car, I believe the ride heights and cross weights will all be ideal.

I'll take final measurements of all the coilovers next time I have the wheels off.

 

Yes you did explain about what you did with the preload my bad, I did try to understand the math but still confused... so somehow I thought you just used the 2mm preload.


So your initial calculated preload net you the 50.6% cross on the corner weight before factor in your body weight?