deepbluejh

Seriously? Do you really not understand why slots increase initial friction? Run your hand over a smooth surface, now run it over a surface with notches in it. One will require more effort than another.

Also, using a dedicated racing brake system to somehow prove your point is a weak analogy at best. Those systems have almost NOTHING in common with our systems aside from the fact their rotors are round and go in a circle.

OEM pads might have better cold bite than the ST pads, but once they get a little heat in them, I've found the ST pads to be better. Unless you have hard data proving otherwise, it's just blowing smoke.

gptoyz

So your argument for the Stoptech Street performance pad is that yes they do suck when cold, but when they have a little heat they may (or may not) perform better than OEM pads but will not have the heat capacity compared to a real autocross/trackday/race pad. Unfortunately, their is no published data, because stop tech doesn't provide any data. Anecdotally, I showed up at a laguna track day but didn't intend to drive until the opportunity was presented to me. I therefore did not prepare by swapping out my rotors/pads (which were in my trunk) and decided to run my stoptech/oem rotor street setup. I thought how bad could these Stoptechs be? They are not sufficient to handle 1 lap heading into start/finish straight. I missed the apex by at least 15ft and was starting to worry that I was going to run into the wall. OEM pads are capable of maybe 3 laguna laps - and really there's only 3 braking zones (final corner, turn 2, turn 3/4) other than that for the s2k it's full throttle.

As an upgrade, the stoptechs are not, as a replacement to run around town, they are fine, just remember they suck for stopping.

@ $29-35 a set, if these even had a modicum of performance, track junkies would be jumping on these pads like a dog in heat.

As for slotted rotors, the purpose of the slot is to "clean" the pad surface if you get deposits or if you glaze the pad surface. This is assuming they had properly engineered slots with chamfered edges and that the slots are oriented in such a manner that they don't weaken the rotor. The surfaces of rotor/pad are matched together upon initial brake bedding.

I'm guessing you haven't seen some of my posts about brakes, but I have tried a lot of combinations of rotors and pads including:
rotors: project mU slotted, apm J hook rotors, sos slotted rotors, powerslots, autozone duralast, centric premium, ctek and oem rotors.
pads: project mu 999 & CR, carbotech xp8, 10, 12, rp2, hawk hps, hp+, dtc 60, dtc 70, stoptech street performance, oem

If you want to attempt to duplicate my work to find a cost effective & maximum performance combination of braking, be my guess but this is what I have found to be most beneficial to me:
Wasp front brake ducts, wasp ducted brake shield
Torque RT700 brake fluid
good ridge lines (really you can put any quality braided line on the damn car)
hawk dtc 60 front and rear pads
Autozone duralast rotors (or bosch or oem)

project mu cr rotors are excellent, they don't crack (such as I have seen from my friends and I)
oem HONDA rotors are also very strong

the following rotors crack from worse to best:
ctek, centric premium, sos slotted/stoptech powerslot, autozone duralast, apm j hook reverse mounted rotors

I can't prove it but I do believe Centric, the parent company of Stoptech produces the following rotors:
CTEK
Stoptech Powerslot
SOS
APM
which probably explains why they exhibit various degrees of crap! I'm also certain similar rotor designs start from a common base with the Centric reverse mount and APM j hook reverse mount start from a common base as well.

AZS2KDancer

Oh where oh where can U find some OEM AP1 pads? They work fine for me.

bb4srv

Hey thanks all for your input. I have decided on high performance street option as my S2 is babied and will mainly be on the street. Only probably 1 or 2 novice track "driving" only.

So my setup:

1) Goodridge lines
2) Hawks HPS
3) OEM rotors for now, will see how this goes
4) Mich Pilot Super Sport on AP2 OEM rims (I have AP1)
5) Brake brace
6) K&N Drop in filter (OEM box and everything)
7) Strut bar
8) Tanabe Medallion Touring Sport

otherwise all stock.....and I want to keep it as stock as possible.