I am just going by what ive read from a few different people with the rpm drop. I was told that going from an ap2 flywheel to a lightweight one that revs drop so fast that you need to shift lightening fast in order to stay in vtec or it will drop an additional 500 rpms. Maybe they are just bad drivers i dont know. I didnt even think about the road speed, that makes sense.

I guess i will need to do this soon. After putting on some stickier tires my clutch slips so much that i dont even want to revline it anymore.

 

i can get the act street disk with act pp for about the same price as just the act pp. Why does just the PP run so much? Is the act street disk any better then stock disk?

 

The high boost S/C kits do that claim you need a clutch upgrade. So its only the PP that is needed? Will stock disc wear excessively? I just want to make sure that i will not have to take apart the tranny more then once.

 

if you take any stock ap2, and shift from 2nd to 3rd you will notice that you went from 8000 to about 6000. so getting a lighter flywheel, will have less mass and have less inertia so it will make the rpm drop quicker.

i do like your future plans for na but fair warning, using a ap1 does give you better peak hp but the non-vtec lobe gives you less torque. and matching the ap1 intake cam, you should use the ap1 exhaust cams too. the cams work in pairs. ap1= good peak ap2 = good low/non-vtec torque. ap1 flywheel is alot cheeper, i think, than other after market flywheel, act flywheel is about $600. and as for the reflash, there are some people who has gotten the toda reflash without a header.

and if you will be going towrds a s/c, you might want to look into getting a "buy a piece of crap expensive header" since you could get about 15-20 hp for it, if you're going s/c.

 

With regards to the cams, I did some reading. The cam profiles aren't much different (close enough to mix and match ap1 with ap2), but the ap1 intake cam is a bit more aggresive. I have read about a lot of people using a ap1 intake cam with an ap2 exhaust cam with either an ap1 or ap2 engine to sort of get the best of both worlds. Plus the ap1 intake cam will allow the car to take full advantage of the extended revline from the hondata reflash. There is a dyno on the hondata reflash forum here at s2ki of someone with the hondata reflash + ap1 intake cam and the results are pretty impressive. I do understand that is is possible to loose a couple of hp/torque in the low end, but to match that with a good 7-10 hp gain up top is worth it.

Either way i am going to hold off on the reflash a bit. My clutch is way too annoying and needs attention before anything else.