Moddiction

Go with AEM EMS for the tune. You will get the best results that way.

melon_launcher

You will make more power with a single exhaust, and shed more weight, however you will have an empty exhaust cut out in the bumper.

dual exhausts will not make as much power generally, they will be a bit quieter, and generally not have as deep of a sound as a single exhaust. However, thats not to say you will not see power gains from a dual system, just not as much as you would from a single.

looks are up to the owner, I think the dual exhaust looks much cleaner on a stock rear end, but I absolutely love how aggressive my spoon diffuser and single 4 inch tip look together.

The issue with tuning pre 06 cars is that the ECU cannot be flashed. There are solutions though. Tuning options I would stick to if I were you would be an AEM stand alone ECU, or Hondata. The least expensive option would be an Apexi AFC Neo, which isn't a bad option, but will only allow you to tune your car under WOT and you will retain your factory partial throttle settings. For an inexpensive N/A build this is a good option. Greddy E-Manage works but you will find that many members speak of horror stories with it. It can be tuned and work fine but its a bit difficult to do, there are tuners out there that can do it though. Between E-Manage and AFC Neo piggy back systems i would take the Apexi unit. With Hondata though, your car being an 04, you will need the following parts to run it (MY 1999-2005 cars):

"The following items must be replaced before the S2000 K-Pro can be used. These parts are not supplied by Hondata and should be purchased from a Honda dealer.

Crank sensor 37500-PZX-003

Crank wheel 13622-PCX-013

TDC sensor 37510-PZX-003

TDC wheel 14112-PCX-003

Valve cover 12310-PCX-020

Drain plug washer (for PCV valve) 94109-14000

PCV valve 17130-PCX-003

IAT sensor 37880-P05-A00 (not required, but stock IAT will read about 30 degrees hotter)

The approximate cost of these parts is $300-375. "

So with that in mind, if you plan on spending give or take $1,000 on engine management depending on if you buy it new or used, I would go with an AEM stand alone.

powerpunk5000

You will make more power with a single exhaust, and shed more weight, however you will have an empty exhaust cut out in the bumper.

dual exhausts will not make as much power generally, they will be a bit quieter, and generally not have as deep of a sound as a single exhaust. However, thats not to say you will not see power gains from a dual system, just not as much as you would from a single.

looks are up to the owner, I think the dual exhaust looks much cleaner on a stock rear end, but I absolutely love how aggressive my spoon diffuser and single 4 inch tip look together.

The issue with tuning pre 06 cars is that the ECU cannot be flashed. There are solutions though. Tuning options I would stick to if I were you would be an AEM stand alone ECU, or Hondata. The least expensive option would be an Apexi AFC Neo, which isn't a bad option, but will only allow you to tune your car under WOT and you will retain your factory partial throttle settings. For an inexpensive N/A build this is a good option. Greddy E-Manage works but you will find that many members speak of horror stories with it. It can be tuned and work fine but its a bit difficult to do, there are tuners out there that can do it though. Between E-Manage and AFC Neo piggy back systems i would take the Apexi unit. With Hondata though, your car being an 04, you will need the following parts to run it (MY 1999-2005 cars):

"The following items must be replaced before the S2000 K-Pro can be used. These parts are not supplied by Hondata and should be purchased from a Honda dealer.

Crank sensor 37500-PZX-003

Crank wheel 13622-PCX-013

TDC sensor 37510-PZX-003

TDC wheel 14112-PCX-003

Valve cover 12310-PCX-020

Drain plug washer (for PCV valve) 94109-14000

PCV valve 17130-PCX-003

IAT sensor 37880-P05-A00 (not required, but stock IAT will read about 30 degrees hotter)

The approximate cost of these parts is $300-375. "

So with that in mind, if you plan on spending give or take $1,000 on engine management depending on if you buy it new or used, I would go with an AEM stand alone.
[/quote]

Well am not looking to spend a 1,000 on a AEM stand alone, would the AEM FIC work? Or is the apexi better? Im fine with WOT tuning because you really only need the power under WOT anyway.

So W the Apexi unit, Berks Test Pipe and K&N FIPk what would the hp/tq gains be? In the mid and top, I'm thinking up top, 7hp 5tq and midrange 12-15hp???

As for the exhaust I think i would want a dual just because it looks better, But i can see benefits of the single, including lower price, more power and better sound
what are some of the best exhaust for the price single and dual ( by best i mean more power)

melon_launcher

I have not read much on the AEM FIC, although i do not know of any owners using it. Many have used Apexi AFC neos / v-afc with success.

edit - from what I've read about the FIC, i wouldn't really bother with it. Id say AEM EMS, and if you can't, go with an AFC Neo.

I personally would leave your factory intake in the car. When it comes to intakes on these cars, unless you're spending some change on the pwjdm intake, you're not really doing yourself any favors. Buying an intake, I am sorry to say, is a waste of money. Our airbox is just about ideal for our cars as is from the factory.

If you really want to touch your intake, modify your oem airbox. Cut out the middle piece, close off the resonator, and insulate it. Gernby actually did a dyno and IAT comparison of this with a Carbon Fiber PWJD one and actually made more power, with marginally higher IAT's. read from this post down -

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/780...t__p__19098634

Do not remove the lid of your airbox, you will lose power, and increase heatsoak.

horsepower gains really depend on the tune and vtec engagement. If i were you, I would spend my money on a test pipe, exhaust, modified factory intake, and Apexi AFC (if you do not want to buy an AEM stand alone unit, which i still recommend), as well as an AEM UEGO wideband setup for tuning.

Here is a list of exhaust and comments -

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/634...xhaust-thread/

cheers

duffman13

I'm in the same boat as you - 04 running an FIPK and a test pipe. I may do the tune eventually, but all its really done is shed some weight and make the car sound awesome. I really feel very little if any benifit from them.

The test pipe is cheap enough though and easy to swap for the cat for emissions testing, and I got my FIPK used for a good price.

powerpunk5000

didn't notice any difference? how much you et the FIPK for??

duffman13

I got the FIPK for $180.

I'm sure there's 5-10whp somehwere in the rev range, it's just not something that registers on the butt dyno. The biggest difference in feel will come from an eventual tune to get all of that extra midrange from the lowered VTEC engagement.

My previous car was an RSX-S with intake/header/exhaust and Hondata reflash. The reflash made the biggest difference of all of them - it lowered the VTEC point to 4600 from 6000 and raised the rev limiter from 7900 to 8600. It was around 15-20hp gain up top, but upwards of 30 in the midrange, which was a huge benefit on the street and track.

Fokker

FIPK was my first mod on a completely stock '05. I didn't notice anything in the butt dyno, but tach was climbing towards the VTEC switch over slightly faster than I did with the stock box.