Raising compression with a head gasket?
Originally Posted by rog06s2k,Dec 17 2010, 08:06 PM
Chris, did you notice an increase on the lower lobe (non-VTEC) as well? I want to raise my torque trough the band, most likely I would degree the lower cams for max torque (1k-4k) and whatever my max HP is on the VTEC lobe, that is what it will be.
Tought?
Tought?
If you are trying to improve the off VTEC performance maybe a different diff ratio or a 2.2 litre would be your best route.
You are going to get more power from running race fuel on your track days. I use Elf LMS when I track my F20C powered race car and its good for an extra 500rpm down the main straight. I was surprised.
$700 buys a lot of race fuel.
$700 buys a lot of race fuel.
Originally Posted by chris_barry,Dec 22 2010, 03:42 AM
You are going to get more power from running race fuel on your track days. I use Elf LMS when I track my F20C powered race car and its good for an extra 500rpm down the main straight. I was surprised.
$700 buys a lot of race fuel.
$700 buys a lot of race fuel.
how do you get the tank empty enough of regular to put the racegas in or did you tune on a small mix?
Back from the dead!
Is there any sure way aside from claying the engine to find out PTV clearances when running the Supertech flat standard size valves along with the Spoon head gasket? Also, will be using the Brian Crower stage 2 cams, which have higher lift, so this will also come into play. I'm also looking to increase the valve overlap slightly by advancing the intake cam and retarding the exhaust with a set of offset woodruff keys.
I just need to figure out if all these things will work together and still maintain adequate clearances.
Any insight?
Thanks,
Tyler
Is there any sure way aside from claying the engine to find out PTV clearances when running the Supertech flat standard size valves along with the Spoon head gasket? Also, will be using the Brian Crower stage 2 cams, which have higher lift, so this will also come into play. I'm also looking to increase the valve overlap slightly by advancing the intake cam and retarding the exhaust with a set of offset woodruff keys.
I just need to figure out if all these things will work together and still maintain adequate clearances.
Any insight?
Thanks,
Tyler
There are many ways to check clearance. Dialling in the cams only sets the phasing and doesnt itself check clearance.
Some people use plasticine or clay. While this method works it is still possible to have valve to piston contact while you are turning over the motor to imprint the clay. Also, each time you change the cam phasing you need to take the cams/rocker assembly, timing chain and head off the motor and replace the clay.
A better way is to use checker springs. I have pictures of this on my F24 build thread. https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/692...er-f24c-build/
With this method, assembly only 1 cylinder using lightweight hardware store springs. If your camshaft phasing is completely unknown (eg, adjustable cam pulleys initial install) you can assemble without a piston/rod and adjust the cam phasing and check valve/valve clearance.
The springs allow you to slowly turn the motor a full firing cycle paying attention to near TDC on the exhaust/inlet overlap. You can move the motor a little bit and then push gently down on the retainers to feel how much clearance there is. You can also push both sides to get a feel for the valve to valve clearance. The beauty of the testing springs is you can make changes to the cam pulleys and recheck clearance without having to pull the head and replace clay.
On a vtec motor I use small button shims behind the vtec pins ( like tic-tacs) so that the rockers are stuck in the high cam position.
Stock pistons do not have as generous valve pockets as some aftermarket pistons. Its worth asking the cam supplier if their camshafts will work with standard pistons.
Ideally you want at least 1-1.5mm ( 0.040 to 0.060) clearance as a minimum. More on the exhaust is good as this is the valve that will be left hanging in the air during a mechanical over rev.
Some people use plasticine or clay. While this method works it is still possible to have valve to piston contact while you are turning over the motor to imprint the clay. Also, each time you change the cam phasing you need to take the cams/rocker assembly, timing chain and head off the motor and replace the clay.
A better way is to use checker springs. I have pictures of this on my F24 build thread. https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/692...er-f24c-build/
With this method, assembly only 1 cylinder using lightweight hardware store springs. If your camshaft phasing is completely unknown (eg, adjustable cam pulleys initial install) you can assemble without a piston/rod and adjust the cam phasing and check valve/valve clearance.
The springs allow you to slowly turn the motor a full firing cycle paying attention to near TDC on the exhaust/inlet overlap. You can move the motor a little bit and then push gently down on the retainers to feel how much clearance there is. You can also push both sides to get a feel for the valve to valve clearance. The beauty of the testing springs is you can make changes to the cam pulleys and recheck clearance without having to pull the head and replace clay.
On a vtec motor I use small button shims behind the vtec pins ( like tic-tacs) so that the rockers are stuck in the high cam position.
Stock pistons do not have as generous valve pockets as some aftermarket pistons. Its worth asking the cam supplier if their camshafts will work with standard pistons.
Ideally you want at least 1-1.5mm ( 0.040 to 0.060) clearance as a minimum. More on the exhaust is good as this is the valve that will be left hanging in the air during a mechanical over rev.
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