I used Probe industries H22 I beam rods with Mahle gold series H22 pistons, -1.0cc dome and a Honda accord Euro crank. Rods needed some machining as per the article above and I decked the block 0.4mm to bring compression to 11.2.

Mahle pistons run in a FRM bore. I honed to 87.25mm.

Pulls like a mule from 4000rpm.

 

my MandM stroker kit, from the same factory as toda's has the following specs

MM POWER SUPER TUNING ENGINE KIT/F20C 2350ccKIT
S2000のF20Cの2３５０ｃｃ仕様エンジン� ��ューニングＫＩＴです。 ENJINCHUNINGU 2350cc version of the S2000's F20C KIT.
2200仕様からさらにストロークを99ｍ� �まで伸ばすことで低速からのトルク� ��さらに増大。 2200 a further stroke from 99mm version of the low-speed torque is enhanced with stretch.
鍛� ピストン87

 

It was my crank that is for sale. It is setup to accept the stock big end width of the rods, a much safer route than the narrowing of the rods option. It has been lightened, knife edged, micro-pollished and nitride hardened. If you buy the crank from a TSX and have this done, you will spend $1600. I know, because I have done several. These cranks support a lot of power. I have never seen one fail that it setup like this, and several are in the 750WHP range with boost. Castillo claimed that a few run close to 1000WHP for drag purposes and last, but those are high abuse with low mileage. The back of the crank has been shave to accept the S2000 crank. So zero machining of the crank or rods is required. Just use H22 rods and pistons and go.

 

So what has to be done to the block then for it all to work? I would need a standalone and injectors and fuel pump to run the 2.4L correct? How should reliability be for that setup as a daily driver?

 

Perfectly reliable for a daily driver. Minor work on the block for clearancing, and minor work on the piston skirt for oil squirter retention or use b-series oil squirters. I have seen people with these just run higher fuel pressure to compensate for the added displacement, but that was on an AP2. AP1's would require even more of a pressure increase, and then the rev limiter would be too high. You can safely spin it to 10k rpms, but most with this crank stop making power between 8k and 8.5k rpms. So the factory rev limiter on the AP2 is perfect. You need to do your own math on CR with this crank, for a prelude H22 piston made for 8.5:1 will come out in the 9.3 range depending on your choice of gaskets, head work, etc... This relationship is not linear, i.e. you will not always get the same CR differential. Best results are with a sleeved block, and roughly 10:1 H22 pistons. You will end up around 11:1 with about 270 WHP on an EMS at 2.4L depending on supporting mods.

 

holy shit i found my new setup just add boost and you could be well over the 400 mark with the base Greddy kit at the crank.

 

^ most IP kits put out over 400 WTQ with this crank. I don't know about the ability of the greddy turbo breathe properly with this added displacement.

 

Yeah it is out of breath around 320whp I think so not a good turbo at all for a 2.4L stroker motor. Already spools up super fast don't need more displacement to spool it. Get a bigger turbo with a 2.4L for sure!!

 

I have made a package deal for a new stroker owner. Check it out, I am giving this stuff away! The crank alone will cost more than this package.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=S...0#entry15701028