Advice on Necessities for DE Setup..
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Joined: Jul 2009
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I just did a full track day yesterday on XR2/XR5 and it performed flawlessly. On an NA S2K, I think XR2/XR5 should be fine. I also ran XR2/XR3 on my 350whp 240sx and they never faded.
According to CF's website:
http://www.cobaltfriction.com/compounds/
They are both rated to the same temperature, though I am sure the coefficient of friction is still higher when the XR1 leaves its operating range when compared to the XR2. I would think you would choose XR1 over XR2 for real R comp vs street tire. If your temperatures are getting that high, it is time for a (more effective) ducting system or larger brakes. Stock rotors will not last through heat cycles that intense for more than a day or two. I cracked a brand new set yesterday on XR2s with no fade.
According to CF's website:
http://www.cobaltfriction.com/compounds/
They are both rated to the same temperature, though I am sure the coefficient of friction is still higher when the XR1 leaves its operating range when compared to the XR2. I would think you would choose XR1 over XR2 for real R comp vs street tire. If your temperatures are getting that high, it is time for a (more effective) ducting system or larger brakes. Stock rotors will not last through heat cycles that intense for more than a day or two. I cracked a brand new set yesterday on XR2s with no fade.
Joined: Jul 2009
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One great think about the xp10/xp8 set up, or going with Carbotech in general is they offer streat pads as well and there is no required bedding when you go back an forth between the 2. So you don't need a "fresh rotor" if you stay with their product line.
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Redmond, Washington, USA
I used Cobalt before I used Carbotech.
But this thread convinced me never, ever to trust Cobalt again.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=537024
YMMV, but I'm forever done with Cobalt; well, at least until they come clean, admit they ####ed up big time, and make good on the damage they did, rather than stonewall. How can I possibly trust a brake pad manufacturer who radically changes the performance of a pad without changing the name of the pad? I can never know what I'm getting with Cobalt, and that's not acceptable to me.
YMMV
But this thread convinced me never, ever to trust Cobalt again.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=537024
YMMV, but I'm forever done with Cobalt; well, at least until they come clean, admit they ####ed up big time, and make good on the damage they did, rather than stonewall. How can I possibly trust a brake pad manufacturer who radically changes the performance of a pad without changing the name of the pad? I can never know what I'm getting with Cobalt, and that's not acceptable to me.
YMMV
Thread Starter
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The coilovers showed up today and what i ended up with is 14k/10k combo.. I believe thats roughly 225lbs difference front to rear.. Assuming since engine is in the front ill run the 14k up front correct?? I have 255 tires all the way around on 17x9 wheels.. I guess ill see how that combo treats me this weekend and let you guys know.. Thanks!!
Mike
Mike
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From: St. Louis
The engine is not in the front in the traditional sense. It is behind the front axle, so technically mid-engine (let's call it mid-front). The weight distribution is almost 50/50 from the factory. Assuming square tires with stock sway bars, I would run 14k F / 10k R as the other way will be loose.
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Originally Posted by FormulaRedline,Nov 2 2010, 02:10 PM
The engine is not in the front in the traditional sense. It is behind the front axle, so technically mid-engine (let's call it mid-front). The weight distribution is almost 50/50 from the factory. Assuming square tires with stock sway bars, I would run 14k F / 10k R as the other way will be loose.
Mike