can't wait, just bought one.

 

Great stuff Caleb. I can definitely vouch for this as i've been running on it for the past 5 track days at Buttonwillow and Streets of Willow. Absolutely no problems. Buy with confidence!

 

Great to hear, thank you for your feedback!

InTheZone, thank you for your oder. It'll go out first thing Tuesday morning (Monday is a holiday).

NOTE, Block-Off Plates:
If anyone is looking for EGR block-off plates, I highly recommend purchasing one from s2ki sponsor S2KPUDDYDAD. $16 shipped, excellent quality.

 

Question, I recently installed my simulator and following the first start the CEL is still on. Roughly how long should it take for it to turn off? or should it be immediate and I just installed it wrong? Thanks

 

It should be immediate. Double check the taps, 99% of the time it's a loose or improper connection. If you can, solder.

-Did you remember to connect the white simulator wire to the white/black oem wire only going into the ECU? See page 4 of the instructions.
-Check the small gauge white oem wire (big grey plug) for battery voltage with a voltmeter.
-Be sure your ground is solid.

Keep me posted. Feel free to email or PM me.

 

So I was thinking:
A2-> Air control valve signal (+12v output)
A28-> Air pump relay (+12v output)
C24-> Current sense (input)

Leave the Air control valve hooked up or short it at the plug as some have suggested. It's relatively small, can be tucked away and its less wiring to mess with on the ECU harness. I tried putting in a few resistors in parallel (~40 ohms, low wattage) and doing this alone had no CEL for three days until the resistors burnt up. Never tried upping the wattage ratings...

In a previous post it was mentioned that the current sense settles around 2.5V with the pump on. So why not just use a voltage divider?
Use the A28 signal and loop it back to C24:

A28
:
:
R1
:
...> C24
:
R2
:
:
Chassis Ground

where R1=4.4R2 to give a 13.5V->2.5V drop

If others has given this (or something similar) a shot please chime in.

 

I'm going to be running a series 1 AEM standalone with my turbo setup. If i remove the air pump and make a plate to cover the hole in the intake manifold, I'll be golden? is this correct? please correct me if im wrong. sounds pretty simple.

 

Wish we had known this, had a S2K sponsor shop quote us $100 buck to weld it shut. Accomplished it cheaper ourselves but not cheaper than $16.

 

Passed California SMOG Thanks again.

 

Just placed an order for one of these. Cant wait to remove all of that stupid SAI stuff