Did anyone ever figure this out?

I'm getting a CEL for the air pump. I'm not going to bother to fix it on my race car and I could use the room to route my brake ducting better, so it's probably coming out. I would prefer it to not mask real CELs since I still drive the car to the Time Trial events.

 

Found this info regarding the GTMotoring bypass - LINK

Looks like it's a tough issue to work around for US-spec S2ks.

 

Once I'm finished with finals I'm hooking up my NI DAQ to all the relevant wires, so I can do some extensive data logging with all the variables/parameters considered (such as the O2 sensor and how it behaves relative to MAP pressure/TP when the pump is on, temperatures, vacuum, etc.). Its not a simple system but I'm determined to bypass it so I can remove this pricey/stupid pump.

If there's no way it can be bypassed, I'm just going to bypass the cell light output from the ecu so that it lights an led instead (mounted at my preference). This way the lights not annoying. I'm quite sure a blinking CEL light is the indicator for a serious problem.

 

i bought the Challenge kit a while back and after extensive testing around the kit (it did not work on US spec cars), the Air pump is somehow tied into the o2 sensor circuit. The challenge kit ended up just eliminating the CEL all together, caused a small parasytic drain, and left a pending air pump code in the ecu. gt motoring refunded all purchases.

 

If you disconnect the air pump system on the stock ECU will it cause a drain on the battery?
I wanted to take mine out since everything else is stripped..

 

No, disconnecting it alone won't drain the battery.

The GTMotoring "fix" was causing owners (like myself) to have battery drainage issues, especially ones with piggyback ECU controllers.

 

thanks nitewing117,

I removed mine this afternoon. It took about an 2 hours. I just pulled back the fender lining instead of taking off the whole front bumper. Also i made a custom metal plate to cover up the spot on the intake manifold.

5lbs lighter and room for my huge front mount =D

 

I wish someone would figure this out, as I have the GT motoring kit and want to use the block off but don't want to throw a code.

 

Just an update. Pulled my first set of data from the air pump circuitry.

Some initial observations:

-The current sensor (technically a shunt) seems to fall from around 4.8 V to 2.5 V exponentially. In theory this should be easy to manipulate with an inductor with a proper time constant and inductance.
-The air pump system is most definitely MAP "sensitive" as I initially suspected. See the red line, anything above 2 V will keep the pump from turning on or it will terminate the cycle.
-The 02 sensor approaches or reaches zero when the pump is on... Which makes perfect sense but large throttle inputs will register a non-zero value. Whether this must be manipulated, I'm unsure..


This isn't really my expertise, I'm majoring in Mechanical Engineering I just happen to have an NI DAQ, LabView, and Matlab. Anyone feel free to chime in.

Of course, a plot of V vs. t:



-Caleb

 

Someone help Caleb if he needs anything so we can get a product that will eliminate the need for this junk!