Canton pan thoughts here
That is one of the main reasons I went to a mechanical gauge. It shows small drops much quicker than an electronic gauge in my experience and most of them are not full sweep which makes it even harder to notice a pressure drop unless it is closer to a full loss. If you change the youtube video quality to 1080 and go full screen, it is pretty easy to see the gauge. Given that I watch the needle go from normal position and drop about 20psi, I don't think it is the gauge.
And again, it happened repeatedly on this part of the track and at pretty low lateral acceleration. I'm on used z2's that I bought off of danuk used about a year ago or more. Maximum lateral accel that I saw was 1.0g on that corner. No curb jumping either.
And again, it happened repeatedly on this part of the track and at pretty low lateral acceleration. I'm on used z2's that I bought off of danuk used about a year ago or more. Maximum lateral accel that I saw was 1.0g on that corner. No curb jumping either.
I kind of thought about that too but it is just too coincidental that it happens every time on that turn and once that I saw on a similar turn.
Originally Posted by yamahaSHO' timestamp='1446874664' post='23797288
You can drop pressure with oil and air pockets moving around the pickup without actually losing pressure. The pump at fault is not the answer you're looking for.
That sounds about right. Just because you get 'some' air in the system doesn't mean you're going to drop to zero pressure, but you'll definitely lose some pressure from it.
I figured it was probably the sump just at the very top of the oil level and drawing a little air in. I'll probably try overfilling the oil a little and see if it helps.
Seems very hard to believe that this pan wouldn't at least help...
Seems very hard to believe that this pan wouldn't at least help...
This is a cross post from another thread for what it's worth. I have no axe to grind.
Well, when we bought the Canton Pan we knew it was a prototype. But I don't really have any problem with the pan. The leak that I had was probably a result of too thin of a coat of the RPT gasket sealant. I used the blue stuff.
What I noticed was that at the rear corner of the pan, driver's side, there is what appears to be an oil return or bypass "port" that must dump oil back into the pan. This was weeping onto the engine flange throughout my attempt to reinstall and was "washing away" the gasket material. This time I used the brown metal to metal sealant, stuffed a paper towel in to stop up the weeping and waited a while for the sealant to set up. I should have wiped the mating surfaces with acetone, but neglected that step by stupidity.
Regarding the flywheel cover, I called Canton to get some spacers so that the flywheel cover can sit flush over the AP-2 flywheel. I asked for two, but maybe needed three. But they didn't come in time to beat the rain and I had to put the car away.
Previously I had made my own flywheel cover, but it didn't fit fully over the bottom of the engine. So I cut another cover. It fit pretty nicely over the bottom of the engine, but was a bit wider than I wanted, so I didn't install, planning on some minor width modifications.
Now the spacers came in yesterday. They are only about 1/8 inch thick, so I think I need to cut a third (or ask Canton to ship another). In any event, I plan to use the spacers, probably cut a third, and then re-cut my flywheel cover to fit over the bottom of the engine. I'll most likely glue the spacers to the flywheel cover so they all act as one piece.
Fitting the pan the second time was very easy. I went back to the hex head style nuts.
Well, when we bought the Canton Pan we knew it was a prototype. But I don't really have any problem with the pan. The leak that I had was probably a result of too thin of a coat of the RPT gasket sealant. I used the blue stuff.
What I noticed was that at the rear corner of the pan, driver's side, there is what appears to be an oil return or bypass "port" that must dump oil back into the pan. This was weeping onto the engine flange throughout my attempt to reinstall and was "washing away" the gasket material. This time I used the brown metal to metal sealant, stuffed a paper towel in to stop up the weeping and waited a while for the sealant to set up. I should have wiped the mating surfaces with acetone, but neglected that step by stupidity.
Regarding the flywheel cover, I called Canton to get some spacers so that the flywheel cover can sit flush over the AP-2 flywheel. I asked for two, but maybe needed three. But they didn't come in time to beat the rain and I had to put the car away.
Previously I had made my own flywheel cover, but it didn't fit fully over the bottom of the engine. So I cut another cover. It fit pretty nicely over the bottom of the engine, but was a bit wider than I wanted, so I didn't install, planning on some minor width modifications.
Now the spacers came in yesterday. They are only about 1/8 inch thick, so I think I need to cut a third (or ask Canton to ship another). In any event, I plan to use the spacers, probably cut a third, and then re-cut my flywheel cover to fit over the bottom of the engine. I'll most likely glue the spacers to the flywheel cover so they all act as one piece.
Fitting the pan the second time was very easy. I went back to the hex head style nuts.
I didn't know how thick they were. When I called, I asked for two. Four is probably more like the correct number. They sent right away, no charge.
I'm sure they will send two more if I ask.
I'm no machinist, but they look easy enough to cut with a saber saw - which is what I have.
I'm sure they will send two more if I ask.
I'm no machinist, but they look easy enough to cut with a saber saw - which is what I have.
This is a cross post from another thread for what it's worth. I have no axe to grind.
Well, when we bought the Canton Pan we knew it was a prototype. But I don't really have any problem with the pan. The leak that I had was probably a result of too thin of a coat of the RPT gasket sealant. I used the blue stuff.
What I noticed was that at the rear corner of the pan, driver's side, there is what appears to be an oil return or bypass "port" that must dump oil back into the pan. This was weeping onto the engine flange throughout my attempt to reinstall and was "washing away" the gasket material. This time I used the brown metal to metal sealant, stuffed a paper towel in to stop up the weeping and waited a while for the sealant to set up. I should have wiped the mating surfaces with acetone, but neglected that step by stupidity.
Well, when we bought the Canton Pan we knew it was a prototype. But I don't really have any problem with the pan. The leak that I had was probably a result of too thin of a coat of the RPT gasket sealant. I used the blue stuff.
What I noticed was that at the rear corner of the pan, driver's side, there is what appears to be an oil return or bypass "port" that must dump oil back into the pan. This was weeping onto the engine flange throughout my attempt to reinstall and was "washing away" the gasket material. This time I used the brown metal to metal sealant, stuffed a paper towel in to stop up the weeping and waited a while for the sealant to set up. I should have wiped the mating surfaces with acetone, but neglected that step by stupidity.








