How come you just didn't order them from Canton? It's an option right on the web page where it shows the pan.

 

So ill add my input here. I was probably one of the first batch of pans and the pan sat in my garage for a LONG time.

At the end of last year I lost a motor due to driver error (money shift) so opted to have Rockstar Garage rebuild it. While they were at it, I had them install the canton pan. At the same time I installed a standalone and shortly after a full AIM data system (outlined HERE so you can see my data setup)

Notes from the fitment and install:

I have the AC bracket and flywheel cover. Everything seems to fit (fair warning, I have an ACT light flywheel not OEM), but Justin from Rockstar did mention he had to make about 10 passes when bolting the pan down to reach the correct torque on the bolts.

The pan does "sweat" a little bit. It never actually loses any measurable amount of oil but the pan always seems to have a light coating on it. Im going to call this an annoyance.

So now the actual data. Here is a datalog from a 1:53 lap around Sonoma raceway which has crazy elevation and g-loads on a 80F day. All data is sampled at 10hz.

This car has:
Larger radiator (Megan Racing aluminum)
NO supplemental oil cooling (just the oem oil to water unit, this is why I also displayed the water temps)
Temp and pressure measurements are taken at a sandwich adapter, not the pan. (I built a setup I could reproduce on other cars without the pan)
Canton pan
APR-250 wing + Splitter + spats + RC1 tires = lots of lateral grip (1.56g through the carousel)

The oil pressure setup reads in absolute pressure, so to get relative numbers subtract 14psi.



My takeaways from this:

I never experienced any lateral G oil starvation

There IS however a correlatable event where upon the transition from high speed high RPM load to engine braking there seems to be a split second of oil pump lash where I always see my lowest pressures. These events seem to be < 0.1 seconds in the transition and never border on any kind of dangerously low pressure

Oil temperatures are remarkably stable in the 240's (This is likely attributable to the increase in both coolant and oil volume from the pan and radiator). Coolant temps are similarly bullet proof. Given I am only using the factory laminova this makes perfect sense.


What I don't have:
Before test data to show what problems there were prior to installing the canton pan. I think a few other S2KC drivers may be duplicating my data setup though so hopefully we will be able to broaden our sample set.


Conclusions:
Further data may alter this but I would say that given what I have seen so far I would absolutely stand by this product. The data paints a picture of a car and engine that doesn't appear to have any design flaws for its intended use. Its perfectly stable from a pressure and temp perspective.


Hopefully that helps someone here.

-Ryan

 

Do you remove your windage tray?

 

I did

 

Hey cool. I'm glad you had no issues really.

I just took mine off after about 70,000 miles of mostly street driving and a few track days. I had no leaks either. Although i'm the OP and the "instigator" to get this pan made, I didn't get mine any earlier than you guys, I just drive about 40,000miles a year.

I'm interested in what Justin from Rockstar Garage meant when he said he had to do "12 passes" to tighten up the bolts.

The only think I can think of is that that bolts supplied are longer than the stock bolts?

As Jeff had told me, most of the issues people had in the beginning have been addressed. He tells me it's still Canton's most successful product launch ever, and still sells more per months than any other new product launch this far out. I think a lot of guys buying it are not on this forum. Or, and least just lurk here.

He also told me the way they've found to create the best seal is to tighted the bolts down from the center to the edges, alternating left and right. Not the usual star patter.

So, you had no issues with the AC bracket? I remember a few people did, but it had something to do with whether you mounted the AC to the bracket first, and then to the pan, or if you mounted the bracket to the pan before install, and then to the AC. Something to do with the bolts hard to line up, or access to the bolt heads to tighten?


Anyway, glad it went well. The data traces show no signs of the pickup head being uncovered, so that means it's working.

 

Bumping this thread to inquire as to whether Canton has released a version 2 of this oil pan?

Looking at the product on their site it is no longer gold color, it is now dark gray, no idea if this accurately reflects the pan you get when you order from Canton:
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...EDRAG-OIL-PAN/

I didn't read through this entire thread, first ~5 pages and this last one, but I'm left unimpressed with the potential for leaks. I know it is manageable to overcome these leaks but this pan seems very needy. I also really don't understand why they elected to use a flywheel cover and leave all that excess space unused, only to drop the pan lower to increase oil capacity by a quart. Seems like half-ass design to save time and expense of properly engineering the pan to fit and mount up like an OEM pan would (flush to the flywheel).

I currently just have Ballade's baffled OEM pan. But I'm interested in getting a 2quart accusump. It is disappointing that canton doesn't speak to how to marry their baffled oil pan with their accusump. Guess I'll need to call them. Unless, does anyone know if getting a canton oil pan would simplify installation of the accusump? The accusump needs a pathway to the engine's oil galley so I'd imagine tee-ing off my mishimoto oil cooler lines would be best. Not seeing how having the accusump connected to the oil pan is even a viable way forward -- again it needs a pathway to the oil galley.

All being said, the recent engine failure of the speed academy "ASS2000" is unsettling. They were running the canton oil pan and used way too much RTV to overcome leaks that seem more likely with the canton pan. That failure and this threads showcases some serious issues that Canton _should_ be addressing. My hope is that they have.. but haven't seen any details that speak to this.

 

Hello snitm, I can answer your questions...

The color you see in the current picture on Canton website is the black anodized version. When the pan was introduced, we were given the option of paying a little extra ($30 I think) if you wanted it black anodized. It's still probably available both ways.

The leak issue has been pretty much solved I believe. The leaks occured in only a small percentage of pans, but more than it should have nonetheless, and because the product was new, the leaks were extensively discussed.. I believe people who have purchased the pan after the first one or two runs have not had issues.

Another suggestion from Canton to try to prevent leaks is the order of tightening the bolts. Instead of doing the usual star pattern to put equal torque around the perimeter like we are used to most everything, tighten the bolts from the inner (or middle) left and right sides, move gradually to the outer bolts. The pan isn't load bearing, so the star pattern isn't really important.

It was a consideration to try to make the pan with a flywheel cover included, but was decided not to due to the large increase in costs associated with it. It is very unusual for most cars to have the type of pan the S2000 does. For those who want to cover the flywheel area, the cover can be used.

Remember to either trim or just remove the OEM windage tray. It is not compatible with the pan baffles. Also, if you want to keep your A/C, remember to ask them to include the bracket for the compressor.

You mentioned that the oil capacity has increased by 1 qt...it is actually 1.5qts. I don't know why they haven't changed the print yet.

Regarding the ASS2000 failure....In their build article on SpeedAcademy, they wrote that the pan increases oil capacity by 1 liter. I'm sure that was a misprint. Regarding their engine failure...have they specifically attributed it to the pan? Pretty much the only way to do that would be to log oil pressures, and rule out any other failure such as the oil pump. The way the pan is designed using the trap doors is pretty much a tried and true design spanning almost 50 years. It would be highly unlikely the pan could cause a loss of oil pressure.

Regarding the Accusump...it is generally agreed that the first thing to do in oil control is to prevent starvation using a proper pan. The next thing to do would be an Accusump (I have both). The Accusump has no connection to the pan at all, and therefore there is nothing to marry between the two. Hence, no discussion from Canton about it. The Accusump can be plumbed in different ways, but the general way is is with a oil cooler sandwich adaptor, which Canton also sells. The Accusump mounts very nicely on the front crossmember if you don't have the stock airbox. Use "square" type U-bolts to clamp it down, and it works great. Canton has also come out with an indicator light to show when it's discharged. Pretty cool. Also, I would suggest getting the electric valve, it's just easier and works better.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...LED-LIGHT-KIT/

 

Thanks for your detailed response, much appreciated. Good to know the Canton's leak issue has been addressed.

Don't think a root cause has been determined for the ASS2000's engine failure yet. Their excessive use of RTV was something others noted in the comments section of their youtube video (where they pull the oil pan, etc). AFAIK, all that RTV was applied in response to oil leaks they experienced. It'd be unfortunate if RTV somehow clogged one or more of their engine's bearings (but that'd be on them for improper installation really). Anyway, time will tell on _why_ their engine failed with apparent bearing failure..

As for your recommendation to get the electric valve for the Accusump: I know others have recommended getting the 35-40 PSI but looking at my data logs it is clear I'm ~24-25 PSI when idling (at ~1200RPM). Shouldn't I opt for the 20-25PSI electronic valve? Otherwise wouldn't the accusump with a 35-40 PSI valve discharge when I idled?

 

The 35-40psi valve is the appropriate one. Mainly because you don't want your oil pressure to get lower than that on the track. Except for idling, there isn't any other time is should be lower than this. While this does mean that it would discharge when idling, this really isn't a problem. As soon as you start moving, or rev the engine, the Accusump will fill again. When you are idling, in the pits or in pre grid, you can turn the unit off if desired.

 

So a quick update to my above post after a year.

Myself and another S2K Challenge driver did A-B testing on identical data setups between his OEM pan with moroso weld-in baffle and my Canton pan.

The findings were that BOTH setups were perfectly adequate at mitigating oil starvation (both cars can generate 1.4G's on 100TW tires through Riverside at buttonwillow, and 1.35G's through sweeper which are both uncambered corners). Neither car saw any hit of oil starvation and oil analysis had also been performed to verify bearing wear and condition.

The big difference was oil temps. Despite the extra quart of capacity, the OEM pan with weld-in baffle remained approximately 10-15 degrees cooler in all like-for-like comparisons. Datalogged water temps were identical, and testing was done on the exact same days, but the OEM pan would show typical 230-235 degree F oil temps while the canton pan would show 245-250 degree F.

Since then I have welded a moroso into my OEM pan and done several more days and found that this was not a car to car disparity, my oil temps also dropped approximately 15 degrees.

Conclusions?

Neither car was operating anywhere close to the thermal limit of the oil
Neither car was experiencing starvation of any kind
In my setup neither had any kind of tangible leaks etc.
Gaining back 15 degrees of headroom on the oil doesn't have a huge tangible benefit other than peace of mind.
The OEM pan has better fitment (obviously).
The material the pan is made of has a significant impact on the oil temperatures, more than capacity can offset.
The car is a few lbs lighter on the OEM/Moroso setup (not material but every oz counts).