I see thanks bud

 

what a smart fella!

 

I found 4 of my fronts loose this afternoon as I was checking things prior to getting out next week. All the rears were good, I will be checking regularly now
Thanks!

 

On the one large, 84 lb-ft bolt I completely removed it was a bitch to get back in because it needed 50 or 60 lb-ft of torque just to screw in. So your bolt might be doing the same thing. Those big subframe bolts are massive and would be difficult to strip or snap with a standard length torque wrench.

 

I love the community on s2ki, s2000s in general bc of how much real life knowldege we have and share.

The last three track days my steering wheel has moved about an in to the right. I have painted lines on all of my alighnment adjustment bolts so I can see if something is not tight. but have not checked all my subrame bolts. So im glad to see this post and will check mine asap.

Thanks, guys!

 

I'm not sure if this was covered but you basically put a punch or screwdriver in the reference hole then torque them down? Or do you loosen the subframe bolts then place the punch/screwdriver in the reference hole to align then torque everything down?

 

If the alignment holes are off then loosen the subframe bolts to get the holes centered then tighten the bolts. A round tapered punch works better than a screwdriver but a large phillips screwdriver is good enough.

 

Alternatively, you could put the car on the alignment rack and move the subframe untill the alignment is even on both sides.

That's what I did.

 

[EDIT: added bold "front" to first sentence after Strat pointed out the entire rear suspension is bolted to the subframe]

That's a good idea if your front max or min camber is very different from side to side. You could even do this at home. With the car on stands or on a lift with the wheels on you could set both adjusters to max camber and measure the camber with the wheels in the air. You wouldn't have to be real accurate on the measurement, you could even use a plumb bob (weight on a string) and ruler to measure the camber and then move the subframe using the alignment holes for leverage until you get the measurement close to the same on both sides. Of course you'd need a new alignment after moving the subframe.

 

Thanks Rob. You always post good helpful info.