I thought the OP and the other person with them in this thread went with +55s. If I go with +50, then I am losing 13.7 mm of fender clearance compared to my current setup.
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You likely won't be able to keep the same wheel track width if you go wider though so not sure why the 13mm of clearance loss is a surprise. You can always have the fenders pulled a little. It's worth it - the extra 1" of width on the wheels does wonders for 255 tires.
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I am fine with a little pull if it has to happen. I would prefer not to get into aftermarket fenders or overfenders though as I like the OEM lines. The plan is still to try and run 245 A7s, so I am thinking the 10" will maximize the contact patch on them along with giving me an option to run 275s in the future if need be. I guess my question is why do you think +50 is the way to go? Will that ensure no inside clearance issues at or near full lock?
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Correct. No inside lock/hitting on the inside of the wheel well. I'd go higher myself if it were possible.

The +50 is easy to fit under OEM fenders so I don't think it'll be a huge issue.
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Sounds good. Now the question is do I order +50 or order what I think will end up +50 as the OP noted the Forgestar offset is not necessarily the offset he calculated.

 

+55 worked great for me and I don't have any contact with rolled fenders, or with control arms with the steering wheel at full lock. Any reason you don't want to go with that offset?

 

Nope. I was hoping you could confirm that. I was personally thinking of doing the same and going +55 so I have an extra 5mm fender clearance. Any chance you could get some pictures of clearances at full lock with the car on jackstands?

 

My +52 949 wheels had minimal contact on the inside of the control arm at full lock. I have a hard time believing your +55 don't.

Not that I even spend a lot of time at full lock but I mean it does happen here and there lol.

 

^Different camber settings and alignment pieces may account for small differences.

King Tut, Ive heard Hoosiers dont use much camber. That may make fender clearance slightly harder for you. But Im not sure what camber is typical, nor how wide a A7 245 is compared to other makes. Should still be very doable with a little work on OEM fenders regardless.

 

I still owe everyone clearance pics--I'll try to take some either this week or next weekend.

My first set of tires (R888) were on for 6 track days, and were replaced with RS3s. They balanced out with the largest weight "chunk" being 1/2oz--so I'm pretty happy about that. Those RS3 are on track day #7 as of today (NASA Buttonwillow!) and will hit day 8 tomorrow. I may give them one more track weekend before replacing them, but no vibrations right now. All in all, these have been a pretty great value.

 

Mr. Poi,

While taking pictures could you get some of the lug nut situation you were talking about on page 1? Also I would like to know if you are running oem style wheel studs or perhaps the ARPs with the lead in shape.

Thank you!

 

I'm in the odd position of having ARP extended studs in the rear, and OEM up front since I replaced my rear wheel bearings but haven't had a reason to touch the fronts yet. I definitely do wish that I had a little bit more thread up front, but so far it hasn't been an issue.

 

What did you end up doing? Just normal conical seat lugs? How many full turns do you get? I'm running stock lugs on all 4 corners, I'll get some pics.

In related news--I can confirm the wheels are actually pretty tough. I was working on my Riverside this morning, and got a little too carried away staring at my exit and dropped my right front off the inside curbing. The shock was enough to shear the threads on the perch of my V3s and give me a sick mad drop (my spats were eroded by the pavement). After scrounging up a, uh, "suitable" collar from Sevens Only, I was able to drive home on it, and no vibration (an no visible bends either). These are due a new set of tires, we'll see how they balance, but they seem fine.

 

do you have this same offset? I currently have the regular length ARP studs on the front and the oem style on the back (or whatever length came pre-installed on the hubs when I bought them from doorman)

My thoughts are that I would probably be OK with the regular length ARP studs all around with these +55.

OE style regular length Vs ARP regular length:


Seems like there might be 1 or 2 more threads on the ARP.