Currently lowered on evasive spec Eibach. I have one finger gap front and rear. When I look at how much travel I have it look to be 1.5 inch in the front till the bumps and 1 inch rear till te bumps

Seems quite little. How much do you think is needed.

Also has anyone measures their shock travel?

When I raced motorcycles we used zip ties on the shaft and checked it so we could adjust preload. We could see the maximum travel that we used

 

I think the couple people running these that are really low are doing it along with some Roll Center Adjusters to get some of their travel back.

 

How much is needed depends on your spring rate and the free/compressed length of the spring you are using, as well as the compressive forces encountered under cornering load. The way you describe is similar to how one would do it on a car, and testing is probably easier than doing the math.

It's not the end of the world to be in the bumpstop a little under hard cornering....unless you have bumpstops with a progressive rate that go to infinity when fully compressed, in which case it could get---interesting--right at the wrong time.

 

Can someone describe the zip tie measuring method please?

 

Is that 1 inch of shock travel or wheel travel? If shock travel you'll get 1.47" of wheel travel, but still not a lot. Zip ties can be used to confirm our max shock compression but most likely you are hitting them--but as stated above it depends on your springs and compression setting. How your car reacts to riding the bump stops depends on the size & composition of the bump stop. Hitting the bump stops in corners will usually lead to instant loss of traction and oversteer (if rear bump stop is hit which is usually the case with the short S2000 rear shocks). If you don't know what's happening it can be maddening because normal rebound and compression adjustments won't change the car's behavior in the corners where you're hitting the stops.

 

Put a small zip tie around the shock shaft. The tie will end up at the point of max shock (or fork) compression. If your car rides the bump stops pretty heavy it may shove the zip tie into the stop or possibly even damage/cut the stop.

To get full use of your suspension you usually want to soften the compression until the zip tie is just short of full compression for a given track. Bikes tend to have more suspension movement available than lowered track cars.

 

It's at the shock. I feel like the rear squats and settles. I am wondering if it is hitting the stop and compressing it.

Spring rates are 900 lbs. I think I will raise the at 1 inch to gain some back. I have the front roll center adjusters which is why it could be more travel

The problem with the zip tie is that unless all wheel come down at the same time I think if you put front than rear down it would max compress

I might try the zip tie and check at the next even

 

Stick a go pro under there for a few laps too would let you see the full range through corners on the rear.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zPXN0093to

 

If you start hitting bumpers you will know it . I was hitting my pretty good until I put stiffer springs on.
Zip tie is worthless on bike and car. Even on the forks. I had many people come and complain about bottoming suspension. Than I ask them how they know. Answer is look at zip tie . I cut their zip tie of and send them out again. After session I asked them did they bottom suspension and answer is they don't know. Which means they did not because you can't miss when you hit bottom. You feel when suspension bottoms, no way you will miss it.
Zip tie is ok to tell you if you not using enough travel and got plenty left. Personally I like to use every single mm of suspension travel available. Which means zip tie would be maxed all the time.