How to stop oil evoparation
So I recently had a trackday where i did 230 track miles. perhaps it was a bit excessive, whatever. Right before the straight away there were 3 curbs that you could hit to get a straighter line through the section. Any time i'd hit them, i'd spit a cloud from the exhaust. If i hit the curbing, i could exit at 60mph on to the straight away giving me the ability to "hang" with the faster cars. If i drove around them, i'd be exiting on to the straightaway at 53mph, so hitting the curb was giving me a 21 Feet Per Second advantage down a straightaway.
It was getting a bit ridiculous towards the end of the day. I stayed out for 3 hours, only coming in every 10 laps to add, 300ml~600ml of oil. (3-6 hash marks)
After many many many laps, i could feel the difference in vtec between being full on oil vs 3 hash marks down. It got kinda crazy, i bought 4 quarts with me, came home with 1.2. Thats a lot of oil.
so heres my problem, my car is losing oil on the track. If i get a catch can, i'll still lose the same amount of oil but it'll just end up in a can instead of getting spit out the exhaust. So how do i sort this? I want to be able to stay out only needing to pit for gas. I have my brakes sorted, fuel consumption on the track is excellent, temps were all perfect. Just this oil nonsense.
car is an 03 ap1. intake, header, testpipe, ecu. G meter says over 2G's in some spots.
It was getting a bit ridiculous towards the end of the day. I stayed out for 3 hours, only coming in every 10 laps to add, 300ml~600ml of oil. (3-6 hash marks)
After many many many laps, i could feel the difference in vtec between being full on oil vs 3 hash marks down. It got kinda crazy, i bought 4 quarts with me, came home with 1.2. Thats a lot of oil.
so heres my problem, my car is losing oil on the track. If i get a catch can, i'll still lose the same amount of oil but it'll just end up in a can instead of getting spit out the exhaust. So how do i sort this? I want to be able to stay out only needing to pit for gas. I have my brakes sorted, fuel consumption on the track is excellent, temps were all perfect. Just this oil nonsense.
car is an 03 ap1. intake, header, testpipe, ecu. G meter says over 2G's in some spots.
Will the oil go into the can though? I used to burn oil - have the can and the can doesn't fill up at the rate I was burning oil at.
Maybe my experiences have been innacurate. But I've owned many S2000 and this has been the case with them all.
What tires are you on? That may make a difference.
Maybe my experiences have been innacurate. But I've owned many S2000 and this has been the case with them all.
What tires are you on? That may make a difference.
First things first - get the PCV disconnected from the intake so you're not burning it
Oil pan baffling if you're cornering that hard
Valve cover vented to catch can, but baffling inside valve cover needs to be changed and vents should be located to prevent anything other than vapor from getting to them - search for previous threads on that one.
Heavier weight oil will help a little, but your problem seems like it's going straight through PCV to intake and getting burned off.
Oil pan baffling if you're cornering that hard
Valve cover vented to catch can, but baffling inside valve cover needs to be changed and vents should be located to prevent anything other than vapor from getting to them - search for previous threads on that one.
Heavier weight oil will help a little, but your problem seems like it's going straight through PCV to intake and getting burned off.
I'm on Z2's. Thats good to hear. I was afraid i'd be taking 3 steps sideways only to have to drain an oil filled can every 10 laps.
of course this was more down to the driver, but i manged to pass a gt2rs and an arial atom. really proud of that.
of course this was more down to the driver, but i manged to pass a gt2rs and an arial atom. really proud of that.
But yes, one thing at a time. A catch can will alleviate the issue a lot.
The motor is an ap1 crate engine, with all the fixinins from honda, It has roughly 25K on it with oil changes every 2000 miles. It doesn't burn oil normally, and it gets 250/270 miles to a tank. I've gotten over 300 miles to a tank so i doubt anything is wrong with the engine. I'll ask billman how much a leakdown/compression test will cost.
do the tests yourself.
you buy the tools way cheaper for the job and youll learn something about the car.
compression test is SUPER easy done in about an hour and cost less than $50
if your compression test is bad than do a leak down if not leave it a lone and keep it on track!!!
you buy the tools way cheaper for the job and youll learn something about the car.
compression test is SUPER easy done in about an hour and cost less than $50
if your compression test is bad than do a leak down if not leave it a lone and keep it on track!!!
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compression test seems easy, its the leak down that i'm concerned about. I've been questioning my valve guides since i got the car. my car will occasionally puff smoke in traffic. Its not a lot of oil, as it really doesnt show up on the dipstick. But it'll bellow two distinct clouds from my dual tips for a second or two then it'll go away as strangely as it started. I can sit in traffic for a month straight trying to get it to happen, it just wont replicate. on average it happens once every 4 months.
^because thats a pain in the ass lol
I would run a catch can see if it stops the smoke, I would also invest in a baffle and a ap2 valve cover. Those two alone options droped my oil in my catch can. Before that I had to dump every 20 minute session now I go track DAYS and forget about it haah
I would run a catch can see if it stops the smoke, I would also invest in a baffle and a ap2 valve cover. Those two alone options droped my oil in my catch can. Before that I had to dump every 20 minute session now I go track DAYS and forget about it haah




