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How to strap down the s2000 on a flat bed

Old Oct 19, 2015 | 03:54 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by ndogg
I just used the oem bolt.
You use these for the front of the car also?
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 06:10 AM
  #72  
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No, I used r hooks to the factory tie down holes in the front.
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 08:36 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by ndogg
Here is another angle for ya.
This is genius! So easy! Thanks for the picture.
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Old Feb 24, 2016 | 03:59 PM
  #74  
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Alternative location for mounting for those of us with rear diffusers?
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Old Feb 24, 2016 | 11:28 PM
  #75  
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FWIW I tow my car 4-5 times a year as well as towing my lemons car 5+ times a year. I finally settled on through the wheel straps and would not look back at all.

Chassis straps are subject to suspension loading and unloading as the trailer and car bounce down the road. This can cause the strap to slowly stretch or the hook to come undone in some situations (have had this happen). Chassis straps also suffer from mounting convenience issues in the front when the car has significant front aero or low ground clearance. Chassis straps are often highly car specific. Not a huge deal for most but worth considering if you have ever tried to tie down a car you dont normally trailer.


Wheel straps anchor the car forward and aft and the cars suspension is left alone. No amount of bounce or compression/release is going to upset the wheel strap. They also work on any car I put on the trailer.

Here is what I use: Set of Four 2" x 12' Loop Exotic Car Tie Down Straps With Ratchets

My procedure is:
Drive car on trailer in position for proper tongue weight, engage e-brake
Place and snug front wheel straps (pull strap through wheel at 5 or 7 o clock position not 9 or 3)
Place rear wheel straps (pull strap through wheel at 5 or 7 o clock position not 9 or 3)
Release e-brake
snug rear wheel straps (pulls the car taught against front)
re-snug front wheel straps
re-engage e-brake

This whole thing takes maybe 15 min now. My alignment has never been disturbed by this method, the car always arrives securely and the process is very quick.

My trailer is a 18ft carson cali car hauler with 4 recessed D rings in the deck for the tie downs. Nothing fancy.

Hope this helps someone!
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Old Jul 11, 2016 | 04:16 PM
  #76  
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Obviously the e-brake is engaged while it's on the trailer, but do you guys leave it in gear too?
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Old Jul 11, 2016 | 04:29 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by RedCelica
Obviously the e-brake is engaged while it's on the trailer, but do you guys leave it in gear too?
No; the theory being that as the car bounces around on the trailer it will hammer the drivetrain back and forth. Realistically I don't know if it's an issue, but, that's the idea.
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Old Jul 11, 2016 | 04:29 PM
  #78  
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Thanks for bumping this.
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Old Jul 11, 2016 | 05:07 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by freq
Thanks for bumping this.
It's a good thread. I've got everything I need but I've never in my life loaded a car onto a trailer, so I'm trying to gain all the knowledge beforehand I can. I have 10k straps, r-hooks for all 4 corners, an 8k winch (needs box, battery, and mounting) and a basic trailer...all that's missing is the S being on it..>SECURELY

Attachment 168784
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Old Jul 12, 2016 | 04:52 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by RedCelica
Obviously the e-brake is engaged while it's on the trailer, but do you guys leave it in gear too?
Not in gear, and if your e-brake is removed (Stoptech rear BBK) I wouldn't worry about that either. Just put it in gear till it is strapped and then take it out of gear while towing. I've towed my SpecE30 many times out of gear and with no e-brake. As long as your straps have captive hooks then they can't come off. I did lend my trailer to a buddy to tow a Fox Body Mustang, and he didn't use captive hooks, and used a come-a-long that failed, and it rolled off the back of my trailer on a 2 lane road.
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