When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
curious what you've decided for wheels... 18x11 or 10.5? or sticking with 17s?
The 17s on the car will stay for a little bit while I get some seat time. In the long run I think I am going to try to fit 18x11 square simply because it nets so many tire options. My plan is to get a set of over fenders to the existing ASM front fenders, then run a lower positive offset wheel up front to minimize rubbing and leave a little room for brake cooling. That D-Sport magazine feature showed an 18x11 +15 (6.59" backspacing) Advan but that car had a Voltex widebody so I'm thinking somewhere in the 18x11 +20-25 (~6.8-7.0") range might be a decent middle ground. My first pass might be the 18x11 +44 Forgestars with a 10-15mm spacer and the existing fenders. If it rubs a bunch, I'll add the over fenders.
The 17s on the car will stay for a little bit while I get some seat time. In the long run I think I am going to try to fit 18x11 square simply because it nets so many tire options. My plan is to get a set of over fenders to the existing ASM front fenders, then run a lower positive offset wheel up front to minimize rubbing and leave a little room for brake cooling. That D-Sport magazine feature showed an 18x11 +15 (6.59" backspacing) Advan but that car had a Voltex widebody so I'm thinking somewhere in the 18x11 +20-25 (~6.8-7.0") range might be a decent middle ground. My first pass might be the 18x11 +44 Forgestars with a 10-15mm spacer and the existing fenders. If it rubs a bunch, I'll add the over fenders.
I'm running the Forgestar CF5 in 18x9.5 +55 up front and 18x11 +63 in the rear. Had to do an aggressive fender roll, but other than that it fits great (running Stoptech ST40 BBK up front w/ no spacers). TIres are Toyo R888's in 255/35/R18 up front and 295/30/R18 in the rear.
I'm running the Forgestar CF5 in 18x9.5 +55 up front and 18x11 +63 in the rear. Had to do an aggressive fender roll, but other than that it fits great (running Stoptech ST40 BBK up front w/ no spacers). TIres are Toyo R888's in 255/35/R18 up front and 295/30/R18 in the rear.
This is great information to have, thank you. Are you able to turn lock-to-lock without rubbing? Any brake cooling ducts?
Yes, can turn lock to lock with no rubbing. I don't have brake cooling ducts, instead I use the air guides from Honed (my fake brake vents are being used for the oil cooler and water pump for the supercharger aftercooler).
Yes, can turn lock to lock with no rubbing. I don't have brake cooling ducts, instead I use the air guides from Honed (my fake brake vents are being used for the oil cooler and water pump for the supercharger aftercooler).
Great info, thank you! I think I am going to fit the wheels first and see what I have room for. If I can find a way to run ducts, great. If not, I'll likely go with the guides you posted.
After relocating from Texas to Idaho in March, I recently found some time to put the engine and transmission back in the car. I also fixed the stuck subframe bolt by opening up the end of the frame rail, removing destroyed sleeve and bolt, and welding a new nut in place. Sliding the engine in from the bottom was extremely easy with a lift and two sets of hands.. took maybe 5 hrs in total to fix the bolts, prep engine/trans, install in car, and hook almost everything up. The car needs fluids and a new battery before it is g2g.
I've been trying to start the car over the last few days and have not had any luck. The car will crank, but will not fire. The car has a J's Racing ECU. Here's a list of things I've checked/verified:
Charged battery
Verified CEL functions and there are no active errors
Checked under dash fuses
Checked under hood fuses
Pulled and tested each spark plug/coil (grounded plug, cranked car, observed spark on all four)
Tested for continuity from negative terminal on the battery to the cylinder head, and body of the car
Checked voltage at injector clips
Verified spark plugs are wet with fuel
Sprayed starting fluid into the TB then cranked the car
None of the above resolved the issue. The car cranks and will stumble or backfire, but will not start. The plug for the intake camshaft position sensor is crushed but still intact enough to allow for the plug to connect. I guess this could be the issue, I'll test this weekend. Other thoughts? It seems I am getting spark, fuel, and assuming the timing was set correctly by InlinePro, that should be in order as well. So that leaves me with the car isn't firing at the right time due to the one or both of the camshaft position sensors not functioning correctly. I suppose it could be the crankshaft position sensor, too. Wouldn't these throw a code if they weren't functioning properly?
Edit: attached some pictures of the smashed camshaft position sensor connector.
Last edited by mt.nichols; Sep 25, 2020 at 10:35 AM.
Do you have an inductive timing light to check the timing? Put the pickup on the wires to the #1 coil. I know that it works with a running engine, but I never tried it with just cranking. Can see if timing is about where it should be, if it fires the timing light. I am not familiar with the ECU. Can you reload the tune to it, it you have it backed up?
Do you have an inductive timing light to check the timing? Put the pickup on the wires to the #1 coil. I know that it works with a running engine, but I never tried it with just cranking. Can see if timing is about where it should be, if it fires the timing light. I am not familiar with the ECU. Can you reload the tune to it, it you have it backed up?
The timing light was something else I'd thought of, I just haven't had a second set of hands to push the start button this week. I'll try to get that done this weekend.
The J's ECU is pre-programmed for a specific set of mods, as I understand it. I don't think it can be programmed. I do have two spare, stock ECUs lying around. I'll try one of those this weekend as well.
