I pulled the plugs and let the car air out for a bit, no dice.

Plugged in the original ECU (green immobilizer key shows up and disappears with key cycle - No CELs) and no dice with that either.

Have not tried the timing light yet, will report back when I do.

 

Update: the car started right up with the crankshaft position sensor disconnected. It barely runs, but started nonetheless.

There were no codes prior to disconnecting the CPS. I disconnected it, started car, shut down.. P0335 and P1367 popped up.

I then plugged crank sensor in, disconnected intake cam sensor, cleared codes, no start. P0335 and P1367.

Plugged cam sensor in, cleared codes, no start. P0335 popped up.

At this point I'm leaning towards a faulty CPS or cam timing (again, I hope unlikely since InlinePro did the build..). Thoughts?
@Billman250 any ideas?

 

Removed the valve cover to check the timing. This looks like it may be off but if I'm honest, its hard for me to tell..

 

Another angle per @Billman250 's recommendations in another thread.

 

Was #1 at TDC, when you took the pics? Don't assume that it is just because everything else lines up.

Even if it was off by a tooth, it should run. Try changing the crank and/or cam sensors. Check that the male pins in the sensors/connectors did not get bent over. If it still does not run, then you may have an open or short in the engine wire harness? The electrical service manual gives details on pin configurations and sensor troubleshooting.

 

I agree. It may be 1 tooth off but it would still run relatively well. The fact it won’t run at all points to some electrical problem that is telling the engine to do the wrong things.

only other thing I could think of. Has the new motor run correctly at all. Did they use the correct cam and crank triggers. If they used the late ap2 trigger wheels they are different than the ap1/ap2. And the exhaust cam trigger is different. Just a thought.

 

This might be a better angle. I realized the front gear wasn't quite level with the cylinder head when I took that picture.


Both of the cam position sensors are brand new, OEM Honda parts. The only question mark is the pins on the intake camshaft.. the plug is smashed but it still plugs in. It just doesn't "snap."

I've checked the grounds with a multimeter but that's about it. Does anyone have a copy or know where I can get a copy of the ESM?

I'm talking to the builder at InlinePro tomorrow, I'll ask about the trigger wheel. The block is an f22 but has had an f20 rotating assembly for a while now.

The car ran before it spun a bearing, obviously, but has not since. I replaced the two camshaft position sensors but other than that, everything else should be the same.

 

Are you using an ap1 engine harness with 2 cam sensors and the crank sensor with the lead attached to the sensor

late ap2 has 1 cam sensor and the crank has no lead with plug directly on the sensor.

If it was a late f22 block and they mixed parts or ordered wrong part number cam/crank triggers it would cause what you are experiencing.

i dont know anything about the j’s Ecu

 

It is an ap1 harness, two (new) cam sensors, and an ap1 crankshaft position sensor (with lead attached to the sensor). Unless the cam or crankshaft trigger wheels were swapped during the rebuild, this is exactly how I bought the car. I have an OEM AP1 ECU in the car now. I'm able to get it to fire with the J's and the OEM ECU; it runs the same regardless - sounds like it is on 2 cylinders at best.

We'll see what InlinePro has to say today.

 

InlinePro say the timing looks dead on and that all trigger wheels were reused. I'm going to check the camshaft trigger wheels today to be sure that they are correct and tight. I obviously can't see the crankshaft trigger wheel easily so I'm just going to trust them on that one.