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View Poll Results: What front sway bar do you use?
Gendron 1.25" hollow
16.57%
Gendron 1.375" hollow
8.84%
Ankeny single blade
0.55%
Ankeny dual blade
7.73%
Comptech Adjustable V2
7.18%
Saner
19.34%
Other
13.26%
Eibach
20.44%
Standard Gendron
6.08%
Voters: 181. You may not vote on this poll

STR Prep - Sway Bars

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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 07:02 PM
  #191  
rrthorne8's Avatar
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Serious question and im not trying to throw stones. What is the cost of just the bearings themselves? for 1.25" bar.
And Bill has always been great with his products, i just havent talked myself into $240+ for these mounts. why the high cost? is the bearing a large percent of that?
its not a complicated piece, its not milled from aluminum, what am i paying for? and why is this part worth my money
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 08:02 PM
  #192  
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Originally Posted by rrthorne8
Serious question and im not trying to throw stones. What is the cost of just the bearings themselves? for 1.25" bar.
And Bill has always been great with his products, i just havent talked myself into $240+ for these mounts. why the high cost? is the bearing a large percent of that?
its not a complicated piece, its not milled from aluminum, what am i paying for? and why is this part worth my money
Looks like the mounts are listed for $275. Even the bars themselves obviously cost far more than the parts. What are you paying for/why the high cost? Probably market price due to supply/demand, because there are no easily available competitive alternatives. I'm looking at the big bar, mounts, and rear bar, total $1675, but the site lists a $20 discount for buying the mounts/bar together.

I'm sure they're top quality, but the prices are staggering. The top big bar for the Miata is $170.
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 08:30 PM
  #193  
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From: Atlanta
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Yep, simple supply and demand. You want that stuff? Buy it or build it and only one guy is building it.... besides Ankeny but that stuff is wild. Bill's a good guy and the parts are designed pretty well. I'd say more than adequately... over designed which is alright by me.
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 03:34 AM
  #194  
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Additionally, you pay for Bill's ability. If you are in any kind of job where your abilities/knowledge/expertise is what keeps you paid, this should strike a chord with you.

You don't pay for the hammer, you pay for knowing how to use it.
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 03:46 AM
  #195  
TTMartin's Avatar
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Originally Posted by jeffjanzen
Originally Posted by rrthorne8' timestamp='1328501897' post='21386801
problems with rubbing.
gendron bar with oem mount. arms rub steering boot and i am now replacing steering boots on both sides.
Was looking to order new bearing mounts from Bill, but now i am hearing the mounts rub too?
any solutions, anyone running bar and not having any problems?
I made 1/2" aluminum spacers to drop my OEM mounts down (they sit between the frame rails and T-brackets). Just pick up some 1/2" x 2" aluminum bar stock from a local metal shop, drill some holes, buy longer bolts, and for about $10 your boots will be safe. Someone is selling them on here now, but they're easy enough to make for a lot cheaper.

BB mounts are nice, but they add almost 5lbs. to the nose (just a guess - has anyone weighed them?). I probably wouldn't do it unless I needed the extra stiffness, but I guess it could be worthwhile if you want to eliminate bushing compliance from your roll stiffness equation.
Originally Posted by TTMartin
Received my Gendron Bar yesterday.

Ball Bearing Mounts with bearings ~5 lbs

1.375" Monster Bar with arms and endlinks confirmed at ~17 lbs
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 06:50 AM
  #196  
IntegraR0064's Avatar
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From: Near Philadelphia
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Originally Posted by rrthorne8
Serious question and im not trying to throw stones. What is the cost of just the bearings themselves? for 1.25" bar.
And Bill has always been great with his products, i just havent talked myself into $240+ for these mounts. why the high cost? is the bearing a large percent of that?
its not a complicated piece, its not milled from aluminum, what am i paying for? and why is this part worth my money
Unless you have your own machine shop, or if we were to make brackets in a large batch, I'm not sure you're going to be able to beat it by much. Or you'll spend a lot of time doing it. Low volume bracket machining is expensive. Plus there's the time of designing it and customer service.
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 07:03 PM
  #197  
jeffjanzen's Avatar
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Originally Posted by rrthorne8
Serious question and im not trying to throw stones. What is the cost of just the bearings themselves?
You can buy the bearings for $70 (from Bill) or less, I assume, if you find a bearing supplier. The brackets are pretty simple, but it's a low-volume endeavor and Bill has to earn a living.
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 09:50 PM
  #198  
rrthorne8's Avatar
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From: littleton, CO
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Seems reasonable i suppose. maybe i can make a low cost alternative for all of us that matches or gets close to oem weight.
does anybody have the weight of bills BB assembly and part number of the bearing?
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 10:05 PM
  #199  
legend4life's Avatar
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Originally Posted by TTMartin
Originally Posted by jeffjanzen' timestamp='1328546424' post='21388089
[quote name='rrthorne8' timestamp='1328501897' post='21386801']
problems with rubbing.
gendron bar with oem mount. arms rub steering boot and i am now replacing steering boots on both sides.
Was looking to order new bearing mounts from Bill, but now i am hearing the mounts rub too?
any solutions, anyone running bar and not having any problems?
I made 1/2" aluminum spacers to drop my OEM mounts down (they sit between the frame rails and T-brackets). Just pick up some 1/2" x 2" aluminum bar stock from a local metal shop, drill some holes, buy longer bolts, and for about $10 your boots will be safe. Someone is selling them on here now, but they're easy enough to make for a lot cheaper.

BB mounts are nice, but they add almost 5lbs. to the nose (just a guess - has anyone weighed them?). I probably wouldn't do it unless I needed the extra stiffness, but I guess it could be worthwhile if you want to eliminate bushing compliance from your roll stiffness equation.
Originally Posted by TTMartin
Received my Gendron Bar yesterday.

Ball Bearing Mounts with bearings ~5 lbs

1.375" Monster Bar with arms and endlinks confirmed at ~17 lbs
[/quote]

Definitely seems like these are overbuilt. 22 lbs altogether? Are these bars worth the added cost/weight over any possible cheaper/lighter alternatives?
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 05:04 PM
  #200  
762's Avatar
762
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ok everyone did a few rough calculations.

Using the formula on pg 5 to calculate sway bar stiffness: Here

I decided to try and find the difference between the hard top and soft top MX5 Front Sway bars.

Josh Owens had these variables for the Soft top FSB

Bar Dimensions
d = 0.82677165 in (this is 21mm)
t = 0.1023622 in
R = 8.5 in
L = 32.374 in
r = 1.25 in
C = 8.9 in

Then using the formula in the document
S = 128.7649 lbs/in

I found online that the hardtop bar is 0.8661417in (22mm) on some miata forum, so using the above formula, holding the other variables constant (no new info to suggest they would be different.)

S = 150.629155 lbs/in

so the hard top bar is approx. 16-17% stiffer then the soft top bar.
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