Interesting that they are so much softer than the Gendron bars.
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I got this response from Guy last August

"Justin--My bar is about 15% stiffer than a Gendron bar, and can adjust about 30% and can be done in less than 1 minute. "
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This sounds more competitive. Should probably verify with Guy directly, maybe there have been changes year to year, and clarify against which Gendron bar.

Does anyone know how useful/repeatable the adjustment mechanism is, being infinite and without detent settings/markings?

 

For what it's worth, Gendron on the Ankeny bar (I made minor edits to anonymize the quote):

His explanation sounds plausible, but a huge number of top level road race teams use blade-type bars -- one would imagine that wouldn't be the case if they were that flawed. I ran a Gendron all last year, and have an Ankeny sitting in a box in my garage for this year, so I'll be able to comment based on firsthand experience in a few months.

 

Spoke on the phone, this driver is getting a replacement set of mounts. His appear to have less cut away than the design calls for. I haven't had other feedback of this nature, if there are problems please let me know.

Bill Gendron

 

Thanks Bill!
For anyone else considering Bill has been available and helpful to me over the phone and e-mail. Don't hesitate to order if you're thinking of it.

 

I don't have experience with blade type sway bars, only have driven on one car. My guess is that there may be a blade design/selection (sizing) criteria for angle range that is optimum (not all blades are equal for all applications?). I have seen various sizes of blades available specified in size (dimensional) and force rating.

I searched for a blade angle vs force curve but could not find any. Know where to find one?

This Swedish web page shows a few selections for blades. http://sellholm.se/article_group.asp?id=29&g=6

Found these FEA images of a blade in two positions which helps get the concept across.

Flat (soft)


Vertical (stiff)

 

Highly recommend both Bill and Guy. Both are very helpful and we are fortunate to have such knowledgeable builders supporting our hobby.

-Marc

 

That image shows the ideal case. I think that Bill's assertion is that the blades are prone to lateral / sideways movement as well in the real world. I haven't installed the Ankeny bar yet, but I know that on the Gendron, the endlinks don't sit perfectly vertically -- they rest at an angle, and thus exert some sideways force on the bar arms. The Ankeny's blades are thinner than the Gendron's arms, so assuming the endlinks also sit at an angle on the Ankeny, the Ankeny's arms will almost definitely have more lateral flex than the Gendron's. Whether that flex will be noticeable is the question. I do recall Marc posting saying that he didn't like the Ankeny's feel, but I'm hard-headed and like to try things myself.

 

If you line up the blades with the end links vs straight up and down than that should equal full stiff. Obviously you'll get some deflection if running the blade vertical. At least that's what my friend and 4 time CP National champion has told me...

 

Besides, I like being able to adjust sway bar stiffness in 30 seconds vs 30 minutes.

 

I have the 1.25" .25" Gendron bar. My links wont sit vertical on any position I don't think. I think you are typically going to get that with a bar that uses holes for adjustment. I think my biggest issue with the Gendron bar and "MY SETUP" is a clearance issue b/t endlink and shock body (KW Clubsports). To put the link into the two stiffest holes, I have to take the arm attached to the bar off. This is b/c the length of the male end of the end link to the back of the joint is a little too long to fit b/t the arm and the shock (the brake line holder gets in the way a little too. This will make on the fly adjustments harder for me.

I am changing from Kuhmo XS 215/245 tires, 550/550 springs and a 06' miata FSB on rear to
255 square kooks and 700/650 springs. Pretty sure I'm going to need the stiffest two holes.. . Going to put it to full stiff for my first event with the setup. If the car pushes, I guess I'll have to either make driving style adjustment on the next run or make shock adjustments and then try doing one side one hole softer in grid.. . If rear is too loose, just unhook the rear sway and then go to shock settings if that doesn't work. From what people have posted about setups, I think I'll need the stiffest setting on this particular bar.