Bill said my .095 ball bearing bar will be shipped out this week sometime. I'll weight everything once it comes in so we have a exact number. Dave already has his but hasn't said anything about it nor has anyone else that ordered one? stay tuned.

 

I ordered one but after trying the AP2 bar on my car, I felt that it was already at the point where I have just a touch too much understeer, even with zero rear toe and before I installed the diff. I canceled my order.

 

So the mounts are mainly for extra stiffness? ie would adjusting the bar stiffer give a similar effect?

 

Hmm I wonder if this is because of the two way diff's character under decel. Most the people running the 1.5 OSG still seemed to want the softer than AP2 rear bar.

Bench racing is fun, it seems to have picked up over the last week.

 

Well, the push was there before the diff. It has not become worse with the diff. Besides, who really knows if it's a 2 way diff any how. It could be a 1.85 way. I tend to run more rear roll stiffness than most.

 

It seems strange that with more rear roll stiffness, and even 0 toe, you still experience more push compared to most who run less rear roll stiffness and more toe in.
Any thoughts as to why?

 

Everybody drives differently. I'm coming from the FWD world where you stood the car on it's nose going into corners and then you applied the throttle to get the rear to stick. I'm experiencing a long long learning curve while adapting to the RWD thing. I still drive on the front wheels a bit although I'm getting better at initiating the turn and then completing it with the gas. The zero toe thing has really helped in that regard. The car rotates in a nice controlled manner on exit vs. making the car push. I think that's what too much rear toe in does.

Anyway, yeah, I think I just may prefer more front grip than most people.

 

So if you are at zero static toe then you likelty experience toe out under extension, like under heavy braking. You would also have the inside wheel toeing out in turns which intuitively would add stability. Does that make sense?

Thanks for adding your driving style comment. Even though it is mentioned now and then I don t think many people get that part. Setup can be so peculiar that some people cannot drive another persons setup if it is extreme. There was a guy name Josh Sorter years ago that had so much rear toe out on his Subaru that most that tried out the car would spin it. He was a multi time solo national champion and moved onto road racing.

 

So the mounts are mainly for extra stiffness? ie would adjusting the bar stiffer give a similar effect?
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The major reason for the BB mounts was because of the mushrooming effect that was occuring on the poly-bushing/thin steel mounts that were previously used in conjunction with the monster bar. I went through a couple of sets of mounts myself. The mounts would "add stiffness" by eliminating any slop that would get worse over time in the mounts, though it really isn't effecting the "stiffness" of the sway bar. The bar itself functions (or is intended to function) by resisting the movement of the control arm in torsion/twisting only. When you have slop in the mounts, the bar is allowed to move both in the axial direction and radial direction. That creates alot of variation in the amount loading that actually gets transmitted to each wheel. The spherical bearing setup eliminates any slop and lets the bar work in torsion only.

Nick

 

That slop would translate to an effective delay in transition settlling as well.