View Poll Results: What front sway bar do you use?
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STR Prep - Sway Bars
Curious how they work out. Are you going to those from the gendron bearing mounts or from rubber mounts?
That looks awesome! Great job! I thought about doing something similar, but have a workaround at the moment with the stock mounts that i will share later once i get some pics. I always liked the Ankeny mounts better than the Gendron, but this looks like it incorporates the best from both desings. The reason why i liked the Ankeny mounts so much is they are I-beam shaped (like the stock ones, and your design). I believe they will hold up better to side load than the Gendron. If the load is only radial then Gendron mount is sufficient. I do not believe this is the case as we have seen the old design sleeve spacers core out the PU bushing material and washers/flanged bushings were needed to stop this. If the endlinks are not vertical then there is some degree of side loading that should not be ignored.
Originally Posted by rrthorne8' timestamp='1330932139' post='21476823
almost done this project. currently weights exactly the same as stock with the bearing. parts cost $50 for both.
Rob your showing off our secret weapon, take that down!
JK Man I wish you got back to me the other day before I ordered more stuff.
We'll catch us soon though. Good luck on your upcomming race.
JK Man I wish you got back to me the other day before I ordered more stuff.
We'll catch us soon though. Good luck on your upcomming race.
The big test will happen in 2 weeks, a 2 day Qualcomm west lot event in San Diego. As people know, this lot is bumpy, and very slippery. My MX5 was magic on this lot, and was very fast. So the big question will be, can this bar tame the rear in SD? After the event, I will update again. But my confidence is much higher now, and now I have a quick, easy, way of adjusting the balance of the car, in grid.
Money well spent, I regret not doing it sooner.
Jeff
Money well spent, I regret not doing it sooner.
Jeff
I learned a lot over the weekend. I started Saturday's practice with the same settings I ran at El Toro. The car was very loose, so I began stiffening the front bar a little bit each run. By the end of my run group I was at near full stiff, so I thought, and the car was still unpredictable, but the car was still much better than the previous event. So for Sunday's competition runs I decided to just max out the bar, and see if it would tighten the car up. During Saturday's adjustments, I was only turning the one side, from soft to stiff, the other side was already near full stiff, so when I went under the car to adjust it to full stiff is when I found the blade bolt had loosend up, and the blade was spinning freely, oops! Operator error, I thought I had tightened it hard enough. So I set the bar to full stiff and made my first competition run, now the car was a bull dozer, wouldn't turn at all, but was now putting power down like a demon. My confidence returned, now I know that it was my mistake. With each run I softened the front bar, making it better and better with each adjustment. I didn't have enough runs to get the perfect balance, but was heading there. Sure was nice to be able to make those changes in between runs like that, even though I messed up royaly on Saturday, but I did learn a valuable lesson, so it was a positive weekend.
Jeff
On a few recent installs, plus on my own Gendron setup, the arms are very close to the steering boot (esp on the drivers side) when the arm is setup under the steering rod. The bracket above looks like it drops the bar lower which improves clearance. My setup, and a friends recent install both use McMaster endlinks which are shortened by about 1/4" to gain clearance. The arms still rub the boot a little.
Does anyone know if it would be OK to make a 1/16" or 1/8" plate to shim the stock bracket down further?
I am assuming if the endlinks are still at a reasonable angle, the forces would remain mostly in line with the chassis bolts through the bracket, so the risk would be low.
Does anyone know if it would be OK to make a 1/16" or 1/8" plate to shim the stock bracket down further?
I am assuming if the endlinks are still at a reasonable angle, the forces would remain mostly in line with the chassis bolts through the bracket, so the risk would be low.
Thorne: great job on the bar mounts bud! If I was keeping my Gendron bar, I'd buy this in a heartbeat, assuming you're not the guy that did the welding. JK! Bill's mounts are great but way overpriced IMO, and it was a matter of time before someone else made a cheaper one. Free ecomony is a bitch.
If anyone is interested, I have my Gendron bar with SUPER Monster custom 1.5" bar for sale. Works great on my car, but want to sell because we run on 3 different sites with different grip and hence different bar settings , and want the Ankeny bar for easier adjustability. $550 plus shipping.
If anyone is interested, I have my Gendron bar with SUPER Monster custom 1.5" bar for sale. Works great on my car, but want to sell because we run on 3 different sites with different grip and hence different bar settings , and want the Ankeny bar for easier adjustability. $550 plus shipping.
Thorne: great job on the bar mounts bud! If I was keeping my Gendron bar, I'd buy this in a heartbeat, assuming you're not the guy that did the welding. JK! Bill's mounts are great but way overpriced IMO, and it was a matter of time before someone else made a cheaper one. Free ecomony is a bitch.
If anyone is interested, I have my Gendron bar with SUPER Monster custom 1.5" bar for sale. Works great on my car, but want to sell because we run on 3 different sites with different grip and hence different bar settings , and want the Ankeny bar for easier adjustability. $550 plus shipping.
If anyone is interested, I have my Gendron bar with SUPER Monster custom 1.5" bar for sale. Works great on my car, but want to sell because we run on 3 different sites with different grip and hence different bar settings , and want the Ankeny bar for easier adjustability. $550 plus shipping.






















