The basic bar is $625, the ball bearing mounts were $255 if purchased with the bar, the Monster Bar was $170 more than the solid bar, but, 4 pounds lighter. After messing around with the Moddiction-Saner group buy for months trying to save $15 bucks (over a direct order from Outlaw Performance), I decided I was going to do it right.

There were a couple reasons I didn't go with the Ankeny bar, one of the biggest was reading of people waiting months to get one. The second was that the response could be non-linier and I read nothing to indicate that was an advantage. I sincerly doubt that once I get my bar set-up that I'll be messing with it much. Other than on a set-up day, I know I wouldn't be messing with it in grid.

Bill said he had the bar in stock and would be shipping it in a few days. That would have meant it would have shipped last week. When I called last Friday, I was told it was being finished and should be shipping this week. After living through the Modiction-Saner group buy, I'm not feeling good about that. In fact I've already got a letter written and saved as a draft that I'll be sending next Monday if I don't get shipping information this week.

 

fwiw- I ordered mine in October and got it via post office 3 weeks later.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YPCvk0jQb_g&hd=1
Here is how the bar is adjusted. I have dual blades so of course this is just a video of adjustment on one side. And YES, I made a SWAYBAR adjustment in less than 30 seconds.

As promised here is my write up for the Dual Blade Ankeny Front Swaybar. This has got to be the best swaybar (performance and quality) that i have ever seen for a production car. The endlinks come with high-misalignment spacers which are custom lathed by Guy himself. These spacers insert into the rod end preventing any excessive play that could develop. The ease of adjustment is the beauty behind this swaybar. When I was running my Saner bar, i would have never thought about adjusting the stiffness while in grid. Even adjusting the bar in paddock was not on my to do list because of how difficult it is to do so with that bar. With the Ankeny bar I have no hesitation to make an adjustment between runs. In fact, I have a much different settings than my co-driver (PilotSH) and the ease of adjustment with the bar makes it so much easier for both drivers.

Here are the specs for the bar that i ordered from Guy for my STR build.
1.25" hollow .250 wall thickness
Dual Blades w/ Newly Revised Steel Brackets (lighter than original version and 2-3lbs heavier than his upgradable aluminum brackets)

For those who don't know exactly how this works, I will try and explain it as simple as possible. Imagine bouncing on a swimming pool diving board. The blade on full soft works the same as the diving board. The blade is able to bend thus not allowing the bar to twist. Now imagine trying to bounce on the diving board on its thin side. This would be full stiff (90ºblade). The blade no longer acts as a spring and directs the force to the torsion bar to twist.

Full Stiff

45º (in-between setting)


Here is a link to an adjustment manual for a blade swaybar on an off-road vehicle.
http://www.jksmfg.com/support/userguide_pn_9100.pdf

Remember, this bar is infinitely adjustable but non-linear as well. I will be making marks with a marker to remember what setting I liked (since i will be adjusting frequently). It still works as its designed meaning full soft is full soft and any adjustment leading to 90º will be stiffer. There is probably more that needs to be said about this bar, but i can't think of it at this moment. James (PilotSH) should be able to fill in the gaps.

 

@oinojo

Thanks for posting that. I was having a hard time picturing how the adjustable blade concept worked based on the other posts I had run across here. I definately see how its response could be non-linier as the spring rate of the blade has to be used before the spring rate of the bar comes into play.

 

oh and to add to Guy's wonderful customer service. Last Sunday I attended a PCA event at El Toro. Guy brought the swaybar early 6:30am and installed the bar for me while i registered and walked the course. Guy insisted that he wanted to install it for me and be there while i ran to see the car progress. He even had very helpful tuning suggestions which made the car faster overall. This was true customer service.

 

I retract my previous post about using the stock s2000 brackets with miata bushings. There is too much slack between the two. Didn't catch it during install. The miata brackets are a must.

 

I'm running a Saner FSB on 2nd setting because my KW V3's brake line plate get in the way of the 3rd hole even after I flattened them against the shock body. Does anyone know other end-links that will work on the 3rd setting? Thanks

 

Did you try moving the endlinks to the front side of the control arm?

 

Just saw Guy Ankeny over the weekend and he has a older version of his double blade bar that i'm buying from him. 1 1/8 bar .120 wall, should be a couple pounds saved over the Saner bar in the car now...

 

I've tried flipping the bolt around so the nut is on the outside.

Would mounting the lower part of the endlink to the front really help? I'll give it a try.