Long story short, I found out AFTER buying my car it had been curbed by the previous owner and poorly repaired. I've got the rear fixed so it will easily go -2.5 on both sides, but the front right wheel maxed out at -2.1 (which is awesome) but the front left will only go to -0.9. That is not good at all.

So question #1 is: Who here has had an alignment shop set their car to max negative camber up front for the purpose of seeing what the absolute most negative camber you can get out of the front end is?

Question #2: Does anyone make aftermarket adjustable control arms or anything for the front to get more negative camber without lowering the car? I'd like to stay in SCCA A-Stock, so I don't want to lower the car as a means of getting more static negative camber.

Thanks!!

 

my max LF is -1.9 on the 2002 race car, RF will go higher but I keep it the same

don't think you can put anything on and still be A-stock legal

 

jlucas is right. You can't modify the suspension the way you're thinking of and stay in stock class.

My S2000 went to max -2.25 each side in front.

 

Yeah but did you Dremel the holes?

I got max. 1.9 to 2.0, and that's with 3/4" lowered car.

 

I didn't dremel anything...stock height...and it was still aligned that way when I gave it back to Honda

 

The new owner will wonder why his tires are wearing on the inside.

 

No doubt he will Of course there wasn't all that much tire left to begin with

 

Wow.. well maybe I still have bent suspension components on the left side then? I guess I'll likely be making a trip back to the dealer to have the ball joint, spindle, and upper control arm replaced on the left side. With any luck that will take care of it.

 

Why not bend the other to match? Oh wait a sec, you're talking about a stock car...

It is pretty hard to figure out which piece is bent, but it's probably only one of them that'll need replacing. My bet is on the knuckle, I just can't imagine how the UCA could be bent leading to positive camber. It would almost have to stretch to do that. I haven't taken apart my suspension yet, but is the ball joint part of the UCA? The knuckle of course would be the most expensive piece, but you could always grab one from a scrapper and swap and see.

Sorry for my S2000 ignorance, but I assume it would be the same. Replacing the knuckle is a pretty intensive job, especially if you're JUST doing the knuckle. On Civics/Integras you have to replace the lower ball joint, and pull the hub from the knuckle. Many people who have to replace the wheel bearing just get a knuckle from a scrapper, it's just that much easier.

If you just grab a full knuckle you just have to swap and check. If it fixes it that's great, but if not at least you have a spare.

 

Well the knuckle would be the next to be replaced. I'm not sure if you're aware, but the ball joint is bolt on. It took us about 60 seconds to get the ball joint off with an air gun. It's just 3 bolts, a swift whack with a hammer, and it's off. I'm pretty sure it's not much more after that to get the whole knuckle off, but really I didn't look at much besides the ball joint, which seemed fine. The general consensus though was that the knuckle is very likely bent, so I guess I'll be making another phone call / trip to the dealer for that next.