Then you don't understand engine-braking.

I'm not suggesting anyone should use engine-braking as a substitute for brakes in normal slowing/stopping situations or to save the brakes from wear. However, proper car control, including (rev-matched) downshifting to the proper gear for the speed one is moving upon deceleration will naturally involve engine braking. Hell, simply lifting your foot off the throttle pedal and coasting in gear (without depressing the clutch pedal) is... you got it, engine braking.

Have you never downshifted for a long descent? Engine braking is often used to control the vehicle speed instead of riding the brakes. (FWIW, this is the exact situation that I believe the vague advice to downshift to save your brakes stems from. However, engine braking on a descent to keep brakes from overheating is very different than downshifting in hopes of minimizing wear on the brakes.)

If you go back and read my previous post, I (albiet with few words) differentiated between proper rev-matched downshifts and engine braking and what I think some people do which is to slow the car by dragging the clutch against and idling engine. The latter is poor or improper technique and causes unnecessary wear on the clutch.

 

How does one know if the clutch is going bad? What does clutch clipping feel like?

 

Best way to know if a clutch is slipping imo is to go about 20-30 mph and put it in 4th or 5th gear where rpm is close to 1k. Gas the engine to strain the powertain - if the rpms rise, the clutch is slipping, if the car chugs, its gripping.

 

[QUOTE=cpl_allen,Sep 7 2010, 01:21 AM]Everything was fine at 60k until my 400lb friend managed to fit into the passenger seat.

"See, I fit!

 

oh ok thanks Saki, ill try this next time im out.

 

^you don't have to do that...you'll notice it immediately if your clutch is slipping.

pretty much if you're trying to speed up all of sudden, you mash the pedal but all you hear is the rpm shooting up and you not moving anywhere (kind of like if you rev in neutral) then your clutch is slipping. trust me it's very noticeable.

 

i do understand the engine braking that you now speak more clearly about and
I heel toe properly just that I got the impression from your initial phrasing that you were suggesting engine braking as a partial substitute for regular braking.

I am reminded of a certain well respected garage driver/mechanic who showed me another way to wear the clutch the wrong way. He would heel toe and slip the clutch to smooth out the jerk from the rev mismatch. Of course he thinks he got it right and told me my heel toe method would destroy my 5000 km clutch in another 5-10000km later. Of course that hasn't happened yet in my total of 90,000 kms to date

 

Take this advice from someone who's been around the CDV discussion from the beginning - CDV is a red herring - it is not the reason for clutch slip, just a scapegoat propagated by people who don't know better that are looking for an easy answer to why their clutch take-up is poor. This is why people that have removed the CDV still report clutch slip on hard shifts, and people who install firmer pressure plates report an end to the issue.

The CDV was installed to prevent driveline shock - lots of AP1 owners were breaking their drivetrains on hard launches. Thus was born the term "glass diff" and Honda took a couple steps to prevent it, including the CDV.

The slip felt on AP2s on hard/fast redline 1-2 shifts is because Honda installed a heavier flywheel without a more forceful pressure plate to compensate. Pop the clutch at 6k rpm and you'll never feel a delay. Do it at 8k and you will because the flywheel has exponentially more energy and the pp can't compensate. Thats a pressure plate issue, not a clutch disc issue.

The fix is a firmer pressure plate, not removing the CDV, although removing the CDV will remove that cushion of protection if you want a direct feel.

Here is a summary in the best CDV thread we have - https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...post&p=11421568







Not true, unless you've totally cooked your clutch already.

 

wow, 100k for a s2000 clutch is impressive
Kenneth Haft

 

I bought my car at 60K miles. I am the 2nd owner. As far as I know it was stock clutch when I bought it. Dealership said the same.
I now have 134K miles on my car and I am supercharged. Clutch is still holding great.