Bad Harmonic w/ Comptech SC -> Is this normal?
A new map sensor from Majestic Honda is around 43.00, if you do go with the electronic solution and remove the adapter from under the MAP don't forget to order 2 screws so you can screw in the MAP, the other screws will be too long.
Dave came over tonight and installed the "GhostBooster", he had it all pre-wired and ready to splice into the harness. It is quite painless from what I could tell. We took it for a test drive. It is about 1/4 mile to the freeway and we merged onto it. Unfortunately the roads are very wet and slick...so as I merging onto the freeway I hammered it in 2nd...WHAT A MISTAKE, the wheels broke loose..the car kind of kicked out toward the passenger side, the tires didn't grip until 7-8K and about 50 yards behind was a CHP!! He didnt see though, so it was cool. I really couldnt test it completely but from what I felt it sure did respond quite well from neutral throttle. No hesitations it felt great. I think Dave has put together a good fix for our SC's.
[Edited by SilverSurfer on 04-07-2001 at 12:26 AM]
Dave came over tonight and installed the "GhostBooster", he had it all pre-wired and ready to splice into the harness. It is quite painless from what I could tell. We took it for a test drive. It is about 1/4 mile to the freeway and we merged onto it. Unfortunately the roads are very wet and slick...so as I merging onto the freeway I hammered it in 2nd...WHAT A MISTAKE, the wheels broke loose..the car kind of kicked out toward the passenger side, the tires didn't grip until 7-8K and about 50 yards behind was a CHP!! He didnt see though, so it was cool. I really couldnt test it completely but from what I felt it sure did respond quite well from neutral throttle. No hesitations it felt great. I think Dave has put together a good fix for our SC's.
[Edited by SilverSurfer on 04-07-2001 at 12:26 AM]
I think the only real solution to this problem is the ghostbooster. That's why I am willing to go ahead and get a MAP sensor and just try swapping out. When/if that doesn't work I will move on to building the ghostbooster.
I would still like to figure out a plug and play solution, however.
I would still like to figure out a plug and play solution, however.
John,
Sorry I didn't respond sooner
you know how it is.
The connector to the MAP sensor should be easily obtainable at the boneyard (same connector for a long time) however the MAP Sensor must be different for the newer (ODBII ????) cars. The P/N on the part must match ours exactly:
079800-4250
5V PS-33
I've seen plenty of the:
079800-3xxx
5V PS-30
and they are different, although the connectors off those donor wiring harnesses will work.
As far as having a defective or failing MAP, I think mine is OK since it does work fine with the Ver 2.01 solution and now the VC-1 Voltage Clamp (set at 2.88V) as well.
However, the manufacturing tolerance from sensor to sensor may vary enough to explain why some people's cars seem to be more prone the problem them others.
Tell us what you find out
BTW, what does your MAP Sensor output? (plug in connector, turn on key w/o starting car, stick probe in backside of connector on driverside lead (green w/ red) and read voltage to ground).
Mine reads (depending on day of the week
) from 2.42V to 2.9V measured this way.
Sorry I didn't respond sooner
you know how it is.The connector to the MAP sensor should be easily obtainable at the boneyard (same connector for a long time) however the MAP Sensor must be different for the newer (ODBII ????) cars. The P/N on the part must match ours exactly:
079800-4250
5V PS-33
I've seen plenty of the:
079800-3xxx
5V PS-30
and they are different, although the connectors off those donor wiring harnesses will work.
As far as having a defective or failing MAP, I think mine is OK since it does work fine with the Ver 2.01 solution and now the VC-1 Voltage Clamp (set at 2.88V) as well.
However, the manufacturing tolerance from sensor to sensor may vary enough to explain why some people's cars seem to be more prone the problem them others.
Tell us what you find out

BTW, what does your MAP Sensor output? (plug in connector, turn on key w/o starting car, stick probe in backside of connector on driverside lead (green w/ red) and read voltage to ground).
Mine reads (depending on day of the week
) from 2.42V to 2.9V measured this way.
RT,
Took two readings:
First reading was 2.4V (sorry, I only got an analog VM
). My next lower scale is 2.5V so I tried to take a reading, but the offset is different and it went offscale. Then I went back to the 10V scale and it read closer to 2.5V (2.48, something like that). Couldn't have been much more than a minute between the readings. This is an older meter, so it's not the most accurate.
Today is overcast and raining earlier, so clearly low barometric pressure.
I'm taking a trip to the pet store real soon to look for the triple valve pieces. I'll post impressions if I get it hooked up today.
Also, on the junkyard parts, I wasn't going to get a MAP sensor to use as a MAP sensor, but to cannibalize as a mating connector for the harness connector. For a plugnplay, we need both male and female connectors.
Took two readings:
First reading was 2.4V (sorry, I only got an analog VM
). My next lower scale is 2.5V so I tried to take a reading, but the offset is different and it went offscale. Then I went back to the 10V scale and it read closer to 2.5V (2.48, something like that). Couldn't have been much more than a minute between the readings. This is an older meter, so it's not the most accurate.Today is overcast and raining earlier, so clearly low barometric pressure.
I'm taking a trip to the pet store real soon to look for the triple valve pieces. I'll post impressions if I get it hooked up today.
Also, on the junkyard parts, I wasn't going to get a MAP sensor to use as a MAP sensor, but to cannibalize as a mating connector for the harness connector. For a plugnplay, we need both male and female connectors.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by rocketman
[B]RT,
.........................
..........
Also, on the junkyard parts, I wasn't going to get a MAP sensor to use as a MAP sensor, but to cannibalize as a mating connector for the harness connector.
[B]RT,
.........................
..........
Also, on the junkyard parts, I wasn't going to get a MAP sensor to use as a MAP sensor, but to cannibalize as a mating connector for the harness connector.
Well 2 days with the GhostBooster and everything seems to be fine. No hesitations, very good throttle response and it seems more responsive from idle. Before I would have to rev it up a little to take off from a stop and feather the gas as I let out the clutch. Now I just have to let out the clutch give it a little gas and off she goes. I still get a little back pop when I let up off the gas after aggresively accelerating, not loud though just a little muffled pop. I also smell a hint of fuel in the engine bay, seems to be coming from the fuel line from the FPR, right in front of the driver. I have not been able to find any leaks, I checked the connection on the FPR and seems to be fine, maybe fuel vapor is seeping through the braided steel.
Anyone else have a fuel smell?
Performance wise the car is awesome, from 3-4K in 4th or 5th when accelerating still takes a little for it to get going, but no hesitations at WOT. The original harmonic that started this thread is no longer there. I believe it was the airbox vibrating against the hood.
Anyone else have a fuel smell? Performance wise the car is awesome, from 3-4K in 4th or 5th when accelerating still takes a little for it to get going, but no hesitations at WOT. The original harmonic that started this thread is no longer there. I believe it was the airbox vibrating against the hood.
TTT 
Sorry, here's why I TTT'd this thread not that the new developments are really any big surprise to anyone
are they?

Sorry, here's why I TTT'd this thread not that the new developments are really any big surprise to anyone
are they?
My car has a little bit more in the shifter but not much at all. None in the floor or the wheel or the seat. When I had the stock header on it, it rattled more than now with the comptech one on. Its might be you heat sheild?
Originally posted by S2000RAT
My car has a little bit more in the shifter but not much at all. None in the floor or the wheel or the seat. When I had the stock header on it, it rattled more than now with the comptech one on. Its might be you heat sheild?
My car has a little bit more in the shifter but not much at all. None in the floor or the wheel or the seat. When I had the stock header on it, it rattled more than now with the comptech one on. Its might be you heat sheild?
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StevenT
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Feb 19, 2004 04:50 AM






