Double clutching?
Originally posted by tiberius
It also doesnt do any good either (i.e. doesnt help the synchros).
It also doesnt do any good either (i.e. doesnt help the synchros).
Dave
Originally posted by KenL
You are trying to match the speed of the input shaft to the speed of the output shaft. To do this, you MUST disengage the clucth when you are in the neutral position. When the clutch is engaged, the transmission (input shaft) is not connected to the engine.
You are trying to match the speed of the input shaft to the speed of the output shaft. To do this, you MUST disengage the clucth when you are in the neutral position. When the clutch is engaged, the transmission (input shaft) is not connected to the engine.
The act of putting the tranny in neutral, "harmonizes" the whole tranny. ie, main shaft, secondary shaft and counter shafts are connected and turning (or not turning) together. If you put the tranny into neutral and if you have the clutch "dis-engaged" (to the floor), you have essentially isolated the tranny from the engine AND the drive shaft (output shaft). In this condition, if you continue to just coast along, the tranny will eventually (and very quickly - maybe several seconds to 1/2 a minute) stop turning even though the engine is still running and the car still rolling.
In theory, you could simplify the "double clutch" by keeping your clutch up, letting off the gas pulling the tranny into neutral. (Please, I do not recommend anyone doing this as too many factors come into play here.) You can now blip the throttle to spin up the tranny so that the lower gear can now be easily meshed (using the clutch now), the speed of the tranny will "match" as it will now once again be connected to the drive shaft. If you can then release the clutch quickly enough before the engine spins down, you will have successfully downshifted in a "single" clutch but achieving what is done in a "double clutch".
[QUOTE]Originally posted by dngo
[B]
xviper,
While the clutch is indeed a wear item, it is much, *much* cheaper to replace a clutch than it is to replace synchros.
Your comment on double clutch rev match shifting with no clutch makes no sense with regards to saving your clutch.
[B]
xviper,
While the clutch is indeed a wear item, it is much, *much* cheaper to replace a clutch than it is to replace synchros.
Your comment on double clutch rev match shifting with no clutch makes no sense with regards to saving your clutch.
XViper, et al.
Now for a really basic question (although I'm sure not everyone is really in the know): On the S2000, is it harmful to the throw-out bearings to disengage the clutch for an extended period of time (e.g., sitting at a red light)? I'm sorry if this sounds like a stupid question, but being new to manual transmissions, I am getting conflicting information from those I know; so please no flames.
Thanks!
Now for a really basic question (although I'm sure not everyone is really in the know): On the S2000, is it harmful to the throw-out bearings to disengage the clutch for an extended period of time (e.g., sitting at a red light)? I'm sorry if this sounds like a stupid question, but being new to manual transmissions, I am getting conflicting information from those I know; so please no flames.
Thanks!
Originally posted by KenL
A real good place to learn all about this, if you desire, is a site called www.howstuffworks.com. A complete explaination of how a manual transmission works can be found there.
A real good place to learn all about this, if you desire, is a site called www.howstuffworks.com. A complete explaination of how a manual transmission works can be found there.
Thanks for this pointer, it was very helpful to this newbie.
However, in its simplistic representation of the manual transmission, it appears that the throw-out bearing is always attached to the rod going to the transmission; hence disengaging the clutch would/should not put any extra stress on the bearing (see post above). Is the transmission of the S2000 similar to this simplistic representation, or am I missing something?
Boy am I now confused.
XViper,
Thanks. I think I understand what you have said. I'm going to bed now, and will reread this again in the AM to be sure.
If I understand what you said, bottom line is that I don't have to worry about "wearing out the throw-out bearing" by holding down the clutch at stop lights, but it won't hurt either to put the transmission in neutral and engage the clutch for the "longggggggg" lights.
Now I just need to get the hang of the "rev matching" for down shifting, then the heel-and-toe..... Gads, its time for another mod before I go totally nuts!
Mike
Thanks. I think I understand what you have said. I'm going to bed now, and will reread this again in the AM to be sure.
If I understand what you said, bottom line is that I don't have to worry about "wearing out the throw-out bearing" by holding down the clutch at stop lights, but it won't hurt either to put the transmission in neutral and engage the clutch for the "longggggggg" lights. Now I just need to get the hang of the "rev matching" for down shifting, then the heel-and-toe..... Gads, its time for another mod before I go totally nuts!
Mike
Originally posted by InsaneInNC
If I understand what you said, bottom line is that I don't have to worry about "wearing out the throw-out bearing" by holding down the clutch at stop lights, but it won't hurt either to put the transmission in neutral and engage the clutch for the "longggggggg" lights.
If I understand what you said, bottom line is that I don't have to worry about "wearing out the throw-out bearing" by holding down the clutch at stop lights, but it won't hurt either to put the transmission in neutral and engage the clutch for the "longggggggg" lights.
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