3500 miles, had it changed at the dealer.

 

I changed mine at a bit past 5000, but mostly because I kept putting it off! After reading Wisconsin's post I'm not unhappy I did though.

 

Mine was replaced at 625 miles by the dealer as per the manual. This was a free 1st service. If I had not had it done then, I would have voided my warranty.

My S2k is 6 years old, has covered 60,000 miles and doesn't use a drop of oil between 6,000 mile services.

 

Didn't you get a owner's manual with your car? Read it and you will see that the oil does have additives in it for "break in". Honda does not recommend changing the oil until approximately 7500 miles the first time. I would not take the word of some salesman over what the owner's manual states.

 

Does australia get a completely different manual than the US? No US manual says to change the oil after only 625 miles. all US manuals says 3750 at the earliest.

 

This brings into light the following:
Why do Honda Australia not consider it a bad thing to dump out that "special, additive" rich oil? And how come Australian cars don't seem to suffer any logevity issues? Australia has a completely different set of climatic conditions and different driving conditions from other parts of the world and certain different from N. America. They most likely dump that first fill because it needs to be dumped. It's not getting rid of the additives. If those additives were so vital, do you not think they would still do it? It's to get rid of oil that may need to gotten rid of for various other reasons.
As some of you already know, I don't believe there is a "magic" factory fill oil. The high moly content shown in oil analysis of factory fill oil comes from the assembly lube. They put it on almost every metal part that rubs up against another metal part when the engine is put together. That assembly lube is to protect those new, oil dry parts on that first critical start up of an engine's life. It is to ensure good slippery-ness and reduce friction (and thus scoring of metal parts). Break-in requires a certain amount of friction. If you reduced friction to near nothing, break-in would take extra long. Why would you want to use additives to prolong an already long break-in process when we're dealing with FRM cylinder liners? I wouldn't. If (and that's a big IF) high moly content is shown to assist in reducing friction in the concentration that circulates in new factory oil, then using a moly additive AFTER break-in would make more sense to me. It's after break-in, when rings of seated and all moving parts have found their little "happy" places, that I would then want to reduce friction to as close to zero as possible.
A minute or two after the initial start up, most of the assembly lube (and moly) is scraped off and put into circulation where it gets diluted to the point that it has little consequence to overall engine lubrication. It just happens to be there because it was in the assembly lube.
I wish I could find positive proof to debunk this whole "special" break-in oil bandwagon but that would involve doing an oil analysis of a newly rebuilt S2000 engine where the dealer (or shop) doesn't have access to any "special" factory oil. I would just love to see those same additives numbers in that oil. I wonder what people would say then?
I'd also love to have someone show me that used oil from the first oil change after a rebuild shows NO abnormally high moly content. Then I will forever shut up about this belief.