Two of the cars we tested were stock systems . Running racing brake fluid and racing pads . All cars but mine , at Nelson Ledges , was on racing rubber . At the time we were testing , Dave's car did not have brake kit on , he did not have his new suspension , but he did have super charger .
I would pick up the Tempil paint the color leaves paint when temperature is reached , making it easier to read.
Remember that any time you overload the front brakes , your rears are going to over heat . One other advantage of our kit is selection of different pad materials . We can supply almost any pad compound that is made .
Keep in mind that any one piece rotors running in those high temperature ranges are prone to failure . The part of the rotor where the pad runs is one temperature and the part of the rotor clamped under the wheel is a different temperature . This great difference in temperature causes the rotor to warp or crack because of the different rate of expansion . The two piece racing rotors, allows rotor to grow on the hat with out this problem . I would remove your dust shields , check rotor temps with shields and without , you will find a big difference . Also changing from a thin walled straight vaned rotor , to a racing curved vane directional rotor will also reduce temperatures that the rotors maintain.


brad

 

Thanks again,

I have removed my dust shields. All the temp data with the XP are with dust shields removed. I've reduced the max temp by 300-200F front and rear, with higher CF pads.

To summarize.

1200-1100F: P+ front - R4S rear: Dust shields installed

900-900F: XP front - P+: Dust shields removed

However,

With dust shields removed and Hawk Blue rears, I got 1100F rear temp. Rear rotors turned blue and fissure erupted on surface. Front rotors looked perfect and XP pad hardly wore. With P+ rears - 900F rear temp - Dust shield removed. However. XP front wore out in 2 track days, 900F temp front. Perfect rears.

So, I'm going to try XP/XP combo, maybe Honda got it right all along, regardless of tires or pads.

BTW, I received e-mail from Mikey. We had identical brake temperatures. 1200-1100F Front and Rears. We were using P+ fronts and R4S rears. We had the dust shield installed. However, I was on race rubber with aftermarket springs, he was using stock springs and tires. Those rear temp readings you had are quite low. Maybe that track is easy on brakes compared to Summit. Also these readings we have are from 30 minutes sessions. We put in maybe 16-17 laps per session.

I'm aware of the severe front fade thus rear overloads theory. I posted awhile back theorizing about the condition, when Paul Mumford posted his rear brake condition. I like the way you think, or should I say, thanks for validating my wild guess.

Again thanks for all the advice and help. This should help me quite a bit in the quest for more FUN. In the meantime, I'll be waiting for more data about your brake system. Till then. Signing off.

 

We got similar temps on the front bbspoon. Completely stock car, I was driving it at about 8/10ths at Thunderhill with a passenger. I think 1000+ F is completely normal on a hard driven car. A first order thermal simulation would probably support that, but I'm not interested in even trying it :-)

UL

[QUOTE]Originally posted by BBSpoon
[B] Those rear temp readings you had are quite low. Maybe that track is easy on brakes compared to Summit. Also these readings we have are from 30 minutes sessions. We put in maybe 16-17 laps per session.

 

how does the shape benefit braking performance?

I've seen these on motorcylces before.