Since I'm on a budget, I used this stuff, which is cheap, super light, deadens sound (probably not nearly as well as 3M Thinsulate, but way cheaper), and is exceptionally good at heat insulation (probably way better than even 100% coverage of dynamat type stuff).


Note that while this looks like similar stuff you can find at Home Depot, its not at all same. This stuff has gel filled bubbles, which won't pop even if you stand on it.

I also did the 40mil Noico from Amazon, at the 25% coverage recommendation. Rapping knuckles on doors sounds more solid than wifes RX 350.

I also did the butyl rope on doors where reinforcement bars meet door skin. I left gaps so any water had escape route.

The reinforcement bars divide door into horizontal 'rows'. I then divided each row into 3 virtual 'columns'. Each of these resulting 'cells' I treated as one panel, so cut a piece of noico 25% of area, and placed center of that cell.

Basically, make virtual square areas of any rectangular areas, then do 25% coverage in center of that square.

 

Well I too am on a budget and have made a note of that product you referenced. Tell me about that butyl rope you used, Where did you get it and why did you use it where you did? Oh, and how heavy is that gel filled insulation?

 

The gel filled foil stuff weighs almost nothing. A piece the sizeof door panel probably weighs a couple oz.

The butyl rope was another sound deadening showdown recommendation. Got mine Amazon.

No longer available, but this should help you find something similar:
butyl tape

Its like silly putty. You jam it down in between places where vibrations between components can occur. So the metal reinforcement bars in doors are exact sort of place to use it.

But you want to leave gaps so any water that leaks into window gap can make it down to door drain holes at the bottom.

You also want to cover the stuff with metal foil tape. Cover edges of damping tiles as well, for same reason. Keep dirt and debris from clinging to it.

 

Ok, I'm getting closer to starting this "little" project , some more questions... R&R the carpet.. what holds it in place, and if there is a layer of deadener in spots and acoustic insulation (not sure which type to use yet) does that make the carpet, and other things, fit differently? Not sure about the 3M insulation as its kind of hard to find, and quite a bit more expensive.. I know I know you get what you pay for but there ARE alternatives. Will I need to take half the car apart to get to the area with the "parcel shelf" and it it that important?
Sorry 'bout the questions but I've never really done this type of thing before and I dont want to screw up my new toy!! I'm planning on the doors, floor, and maybe trunk area and hope that helps.

 

I couldn't afford the 3M thinsulate. So used

this

But I did find the carpet didn't quite fit as perfectly afterwards. Even the thin amount affected fit. I think you could forego the sides, trans tunnel and door sill (so end up with floor only), and get a much better fit. But at compromise of whole point of project.

I didn't find the affect of carpet fit to be that big a concern.

My view of order of effectiveness:

1. Doors, 50% of benefit
2. Floors, 25% of benefit
3. Trunk, 15% of benefit
4. Package tray, 10% of benefit

 

I know the 3M thinsulate is not as easy to obtain and may cost more (mine was free with the promise of a report from me) but there is a reason that product is used by auto manufactures from Honda, Porche and Mercedes (and others): it works. It is hydrophobic, that is, it cannot absorb water and then mildew the way the mixed "rag and foam" stuff Honda used in the S2000. That is why the S2000 has uninsulated doors. In addition the fibers of Thinsulate are a specific lengths to absorb targeted noise frequencies to reduce NVH. It is super lightweight. It is superior to the old school recycled stuff that has been used for some time in older cars just like the S. Thinsulate comes in all kinds of thicknesses and is easy to work with. All of those are winners in the auto industry. Rip out any panel on a newer MDX, Accord or 911 and you will see 3M Thinsulate. I obtained mine from the division that supplies Honda for manufacturing. They shipped samples at no cost to me for evaluation after smoozing with them about the stuff and my car-a Honda!

Doors are a big win along with the floor and trans tunnel. The door insulation with BQuiet and Thinsulate not only stopped a lot of NVH, but made the doors close with a "thunk" and made the speakers sound much better. The trunk can be left alone, really, unless you want to mitigate the heat on trunk contents over a long drive. However, I put a very thick piece of Thinsulate on top of the tray behind the seats (it is loose and just sits there so you can just move it if you want) and find it blocks the noise from the trunk and absorbs sound in the cockpit just like carpet in a house instead of hard floors. The attached pic shows the piece I use to place on the tray.

 

I too put a piece of Thinsulate loose on the parcel shelf similar to cosmomiller. Only problem is that if you drive with the top up and windows down, it can get dislodged due to the air movement.

Granted it was at over 100 mph at the track, but it floated into the front seat and was an unexpected distraction to say the least. When the top is down it holds it in place.

 

Would it make sense to stick it there with double-sized tape or something similar?

Sounds like a good idea, not sure about the fact it's just there loose.

Awesome thread and inputs here by the way - Will do some of those this year as well.

 

Ok, I'm going to go look a little harder for the Thinsulate, but how the heck do you get to that "parcel shelf" to even mess with it and measure it?? I've never even seen mine. Obviously you cant get to it with the top down , and with the top up I cant even get my head in there let alone my arms....
Oh, on the Thinsulate, how much do you think is needed for the 2 doors and floor? Maybe do the trunk later.

 

I have to admit I have not driven with the top up, windows down at 100mph. Windows up, yes but then the wind in the cockpit is zero. I have never noticed the Thinsulate on the tray moving or floating ever. Because it is black I sometimes forget it is there when I toss a hat or something back there.

I might add I do not remove it putting the top down. The top settles to it's proper position and I also have no problem using the tonneau cover either. I use that a fair amount in the summer. I will add I have replaced the elastic straps twice from Modifry.


The shelf measurement was trial and error. I would put a piece in, cut, and re-insert, cut again till I was happy.

The door was not completely filled. Maybe 2/3rds. I put the B Quiet in strips (no pic) running between the supports. I sprayed the adhesive on that and then slipped the Thinsulate in there. Because it was a wave install as it went over the supports and back down the door skin, the piece needed was larger than the area covered. Up to you. I also put some on the door panel. Very thin Thinsulate with some B Quiet. Not a work of art but it is on the backside.