Ok, I tracked down some Thinsulate AU4002-5 for a decent price, ordered 50 sq ft (10' x5') and 26 sq ft of the Siless sound deadening mat so when it gets here I can start my project. I'm going to do the doors first, and then the floor, and if there is any left I'll do some in the trunk.
Now as far as that parcel shelf, isn't that the "cieling" , for lack of better terms, to where the spare goes and stuff? couldn't I do that from the bottom? And then as far as the carpet, I know I'll have to remove the seats and door sills but what about in the back of the cabin... do I need to remove all those plastic panels to release it? I think in the front I'll do like cosmiller did and just go part way up.. dont want to get into pulling up dash parts.
And with those door pics cosmiller, that insulation didn't effect the windows going up and down?

 

I would tackle the parcel shelf from the underside, it is what you've described as the ceiling for the spare tire area in the trunk. I think it would work better isolating from the trunk side (parcel shelf) versus having something sitting on top in the cabin on the shelf.

 

Yeah, that was kind of my thinking.

 

I am attaching some pics of my attack on the upper part of the trunk area. It is a tight fit because of the spare. I stuffed the Thinsulate in a variety of spaces. However, the bulkhead behind the seats and truck was also treated and that seemed to be the best way to isolate the trunk NVH. The piece on top of the tray absorbs NVH in the cabin and I also slipped a piece inside of the top itself where the material makes a flat tube over your head when the top is up.

I stopped adding any insulation once I hit the cross support under the seats. Nothing forward of where the front edge of the seats. No worry about messing around with the dash or pedals or anything up front. The floor/tunnel/ insulation install was working so well I did not want to kill all the engine noise especially winding it up.

 

So do you have to pull ALL the plastic panels and glove box out to get the back of the carpet loose?

 

You don't need to remove the glove box. That is a lot of work and requires accessing screws through the trunk as I recall.

Have a look at the photos in cosmomiller's original post (starting at #49) to see that he left the center console and glove box in place. I did the same.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ta.../#post24757780

You will need to remove some plastic clips to remove the carpet (use a clip tool and not a screwdriver and you can save most of them). You don't need to take the carpet completely out, just need to access the floor and trans tunnel under it.

 

So then the carpet is two pieces, driver and passenger, and does not go over the center hump?

 

I don't know if it is one piece or two. I didn't remove the clips under the dash and just rolled it up into the floorboard.

These pics are from my install.





I used a very thick spec of the thinsulate and it made re-install of the carpet and seats a challenge. I would recommend keeping it away from the seat bolt holes.

 

so then at least the carpet is split down the middle you don’t have to remove the console to roll it forward yes?

 

Correct. The carpet is split.

I took off the armrest and plastic console cover (it is just clipped down) so that I could stuff some sound deadening in there. But you don't have to remove the vinyl part.

I also took the two screws out from the bottom of the glove box to get some material behind the vinyl. Here are a couple more pics.