Low viscosity oils - boon or bane?
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From: Midlothian
Low viscosity oils - boon or bane?
http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...700#post2384700
I have posted this thread because I get a lot of PM's about the new low vis oils, API certification, and other questions. The responses in the above thread may be of use to some of you.
I would like to add one other thing. As best I have been able to determine from oil industry experts I know, the benefit, best case, of using the low vis oils vs. 10w30 is about 1% or so. Big whoop in my book. I would think that it would not take an accountant or math genius to understand that that financial benefit could quickly be offset many times by accelerated engine wear, for those who plan to keep their cars a long, long time. The EPA does not give a ratzazz how long your engine lasts - it has its own agenda. The API follows the will of the car mfr's and the EPA.
So, for the upteenth time, I will make this recommendation, and declarative:
1) I recommend a top quality 10w30. If mineral, change at 3k miles unless all your driving is highway, then 5k. If synoil designed for high service limits (Amsoil, NEO, Motul, Red Line) you probably can go twice those distances easily.
2) Consider a 5w40 synoil if you drive very hard in racing or extreme heat conditions. That will be a "European Formula" synoil almost exclusively.
3) If you must have low vis oil, consider Amsoil 0w30 or one of Mobil1's low vis oils. They achieve the wide range without viscosity index improvers.
What do I use?
Engine: Amsoil 10w30, Red Line 10w30 (or 0w30)
Tranny: Honda MTF, or or GM or Pennzoil Syncromesh with yearly changes
Diff: My blend of 50% Amsoill 75w90 / 50% Amsoil 75w140. That yields a 75w115 which offers excellent low temp performance while adding a bit more vis to the diff for high torque use.
I have posted this thread because I get a lot of PM's about the new low vis oils, API certification, and other questions. The responses in the above thread may be of use to some of you.
I would like to add one other thing. As best I have been able to determine from oil industry experts I know, the benefit, best case, of using the low vis oils vs. 10w30 is about 1% or so. Big whoop in my book. I would think that it would not take an accountant or math genius to understand that that financial benefit could quickly be offset many times by accelerated engine wear, for those who plan to keep their cars a long, long time. The EPA does not give a ratzazz how long your engine lasts - it has its own agenda. The API follows the will of the car mfr's and the EPA.
So, for the upteenth time, I will make this recommendation, and declarative:
1) I recommend a top quality 10w30. If mineral, change at 3k miles unless all your driving is highway, then 5k. If synoil designed for high service limits (Amsoil, NEO, Motul, Red Line) you probably can go twice those distances easily.
2) Consider a 5w40 synoil if you drive very hard in racing or extreme heat conditions. That will be a "European Formula" synoil almost exclusively.
3) If you must have low vis oil, consider Amsoil 0w30 or one of Mobil1's low vis oils. They achieve the wide range without viscosity index improvers.
What do I use?
Engine: Amsoil 10w30, Red Line 10w30 (or 0w30)
Tranny: Honda MTF, or or GM or Pennzoil Syncromesh with yearly changes
Diff: My blend of 50% Amsoill 75w90 / 50% Amsoil 75w140. That yields a 75w115 which offers excellent low temp performance while adding a bit more vis to the diff for high torque use.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 2
From: Midlothian
It is the other half of the statement "sh*t from shinola". It used to be (may still be) a shoe polish.
http://www.pottymouth.org/humor/shinola.html
ASU: You are a riot man, when is your car coming in?
http://www.pottymouth.org/humor/shinola.html
ASU: You are a riot man, when is your car coming in?
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