So Geico did decide to total the car after all. I am waiting on their initial offer. I am conflicted on how I feel about that still.

I understand the back and forth can take a few months (to argue a fair settlement i.e). This was my daily even though I have a car I can share with my wife.

I think I have found an S2000 that I can replace it with. Would it be too soon to proceed with that option and get that car anyways while this process works itself out.

 

That's up to your finances. I was searching for a replacement car while I was dealing with Geico on my first S2K; the only thing that slowed down my purchasing the replacement was sorting things between the bank and Geico to close out my loan and get the salvage released to me (parted it out).

 

If you found one you like buy it.
In the meantime try and get as much as you can for the totaled one based on evidence based research.

 

My car had similar damage, (FL) and it was straightened perfectly but not repaired very well (rust wise). There was a tiny bit of deformation around the firewall/gussets where the main chassis rails run during the crash and they didn't rust proof it well enough while repairing this area. Luckily doing a full swap and cutting part of the gusset to re-strengthen/add it, I bashed it back a bit too much and discovered the rust demon lurking within. It was not apparent from the outside or underside during close inspections.
Now it's all fixed up better and stronger than before. It's a track/street car with full cage though but runs straighter than any car I've ever driven, including our 1 owner family camry which has never been crashed. Enough said...

So don't think it's a total loss, it's just going to cost you a bit of time, pride and driving time to get it fixed.

 

So Insurance finally gave me their estimate:

$17,890 (KBB trade-in estimate for excellent condition is $18,313)

I politely declined to take their offer. I asked the estimator to have his supervisor get in touch with me and he said that he would (but it might be after Christmas... understandably)

My plan is to use the service records, newish tires (<5K miles bought this season)+ pictures of the immuculate exterior and interior and the fact that the below cart would ask me so much more to replace it with as my argument. How much do you all think I can persuade them. I would be happy with a 21k settlement. But I don't know how long it might take to get that extra few grand from them. If anyone has experience with this kind of negotiation, please chime in.

I already found a car that I want to replace it with. Dealer is asking 25,000 (plus he'll pay for compression test and no additional dealer fees). They have already detailed the car. I am trying to negotiate him down to 24,500 because the front bumper has a few chips and would likely require repaint.
I am pretty close to pulling the trigger on this.

Note: I am going to the body shop to get my belongings and plates. I am going to turn them in to the DMV tom. Do I need to drop my current car from auto insurance before I get a quote for it's reaplcement (so I can buy it and drive it back). I was thinking to go with a new insurance company so as to not cause this change any confusion.

 

This is a great opportunity to drive home the point that all season tires perform poorly in the cold (under 40-45°F depending on the tire) regardless of snow being on the road. At those temperatures it takes about an extra 30% to stop compared to a warm day, that's about 1 extra car length at 30 mph or 3 extra car lengths at 60 mph. I don't have data to put to the lateral grip, but I'd assume it's a similar story. Add a light layer of snow on the road into the mix, and you're looking at about a 50% increase in stopping distance.

Winter tires are worth their weight in gold, especially on these cars for those that choose to drive them year round in places that experience cold winters. A lightly used set of winter tires for $200 or a new set for $400 will more than make up for the deductible alone in most cases, and certainly save money compared to the increased premiums.

Just some food for thought for anyone perusing this thread that I frequently bring up this time of year in any form I can from in person, to social media, to forums.

 

Here's my experience:

2 years ago, when an uninsured drunk driver rear-ended my wife's 2006 Acura TL, our collision policy with Geico covered it. The adjuster told us that the amount they would offer was based strictly on the the cost of replacing the car, i.e. what like cars with similar mileage were selling for. My wife kept hers in perfect condition--the inside looked new, there wasn't a scratch or a door ding, etc. We thought the offer from Geico was too low and told them so, and they suggested we research other cars for sale. I found several comparables, and sure enough Geico's offer was right in line. I doubt those other cars were in as good of condition, but if you have a really pristine car, you're putting yourself in territory where there aren't many others to compare against.

I think your only hope is to find cars that are kept up as well as yours. Good luck!

 

I agree. However even the cars that are 90% the same as mine are going for 25K+ ... So how am I supposed to accept KBB average condition value of 18k? I am very serious about buying one of these cars. I wonder if I go ahead and buy the car before I settle the claim, if they'd be upset. I don't want them to pay 25K but I would certainly not accept anything less than 20K. Let's say what happens.

 

Just build your case - if you feel you can justify your number then it shouldn't be too large of an issue. Compile a list of comparable cars and send them off to the appraiser.

 

Especially if the quote they came back with is less than trade in value. They should come back with quote to replace the car, not trade in value.