Curiosity...what about the "mode" button held you back?

While not a HIGHLY elegant solution, one that would WORK is to use the output of the relay shown in my diagram to control the reeds on two higher power relays (which would connect/disconnect the speaker outputs directly). I don't suggest this idea for 1000 watt systems, but for a replaced head unit and maybe an amp, this would work just fine.

I keep forgetting to update my webpage with the info, but some will find (as you obviously did) the resistance combo PAC suggests just isn't enough of a drop. So, you can either go with your method (probably the easiest), or rip that bad boy open and replace a resistor internally (which was the excuse I needed to pop it open to take pictures ). The one to replace is a 270 ohm standing on end near where the wires exit...replace it with a 2000 ohm.

Pretty much the way I see it, and I hope plenty of others who are on the edge get a bit adventurous and see how simple it can be to put together. Well worth the extra 30-45 minutes on an install...

[QUOTE][B]If you haven't done any wiring or soldering before but you want the dash control to work with your head, it's better off paying someone else to do it for you instead of risking making a bonfire out of your own car. Otherwise, you should definitely give the PAC a try (at your own risk) !!

 

 

First, I would like to thank MacGyver for his schematic. He has done all the footwork. Like someone previously mentioned, my stereo also did not have a mute/attenuation wire. The best solution I think, would be to use the 12V mute line to switch a relay that sinks the red/grn dash line to ground through yet another R value. Then, just program the mute button like any of the others. I however, have bigger plans. I don't want a mute button, but rather a PAUSE button... and a channel down, and a couple others. I plan to take out the dash controls tonight and start working on a custom plate. Does anyone have the part# of the CH button by chance??? I'll just space out the R values of each button enough so that the uP's A/D can distinguish the different divided down reference and add a few buttons to a custom plate. I just need a good source to mold the plate. The CAD file will be in .STL format. Can anyone help here? I'll advertise this question more when I finalize the design.

Thanks again MacGyver for the schematic and LATEOTT for the GB.

this install so far has been easy as pie.

 

S2,

I've often thought about getting off of my A$$ and putting that exact thing together, but you can see where my willpower has put me. By all means, if you can do it and it looks nice, I'll be buying my own idea from you! Keep us updated.

Oh, some technical info you'll need. PAC claims the SWI-3 can read differences of 0.1V from ground to 5.0V, but if you notice, they only offer up to 17 programmable items. This limit could be a limitation of their program (most likely, due to limited onboard RAM space to store the IR codes), but 17 is all we're going get if that's the case. So, space the resistor's accordingly...

I have internal pics and more tech info if necessary, just ask away...

 

Thank you MacGyver!! You're the man!

 

WOW, I can't believe this thing was dredged up after 9 months!

Well, we obviously have more solutions than just the PAC, especially if you're running a Sony (ala S2kMan and his quality-made PCB). I haven't looked at some of the toys and inventions I wanted to work on nearly a year ago, but getting laid off and starting a new and hectic job will do that to you.

We're seeing mods for the dash controls, the dash display, and even the stereo's cosmetic components are being modded with bondo...God, but I love this car and board

Keep up the wonderful work, folks, and let the great ideas roll!

 

Well, the reason i dug this up is cause I just read this thread today - I'm a new owner. I'm aware of other solutions but I still think this is the best solution for the $$. I mean, you can get everything you need for around $50 and do it yourself. S2kMan's stuff is cool but I don't wanna spend $100+ for controls of a $200 stereo that I may get tired of in a year and it works with certain SONY's only. I mean, the PAC is usable with any stereo that has an IF remote (which most of them do). Also, I can reprogram it to do something different at my leasure.

Anyways, I read the entire thread and could not help but thank you! :-)


[QUOTE]Originally posted by MacGyver
[B]WOW, I can't believe this thing was dredged up after 9 months!

Well, we obviously have more solutions than just the PAC, especially if you're running a Sony (ala S2kMan and his quality-made PCB).