S2000 needs a new Motor. What to do?
lol. My son was born the year that the S2000 was introduced. Such a purchase was out of the question for me at the time and that didn’t bother me at all. We somehow got by with a sedan just fine. I would think that the Acura already owned would get the job done without the “need” for a SUV.
What year, how many miles, and is it stock? Just curious though I'm not really sure it's of much help here.
Why not start with a compression test, leakdown test, and oil analysis? The compression/leakdown test may tell you more about what it would take to fix the oil loss. There's a chance that the compression is good, leakdown bad, indicating leaking at the valve seals. If all the tests suck, what about selling the current motor as a running engine but letting any potential buyer know about the oil burning and compression/leakdown numbers? I think you can re-coop some money doing that. You can surely get more than if you wait for it to spin a bearing or throw a rod. That's almost a certain outcome if you're burning that much. All it takes is a run to the grocery store without checking the oil on the way back...
If you go that route, you can make back some money to buy a new-to-you F series. I bet the F series engines will go up in price in the coming years and make them more unattainable. Finding one will surely be more difficult, especially unmolested at reasonable miles.
The other option is to spend more now and hedge against the future with a K-Swap. K-swap will cost more up front but next engine will be easier to source and cheaper. This route also probably doesn't make sense for an otherwise stock car.
I don't see why an SUV is totally necessary but I do love having an SUV and the s2k. If that's what you want, sell the TSX and look for an SUV in budget. I don't see how these two are related unless you want to sell the S2k and TSX to buy a nicer SUV. That's related but a completely separate discussion.
Why not start with a compression test, leakdown test, and oil analysis? The compression/leakdown test may tell you more about what it would take to fix the oil loss. There's a chance that the compression is good, leakdown bad, indicating leaking at the valve seals. If all the tests suck, what about selling the current motor as a running engine but letting any potential buyer know about the oil burning and compression/leakdown numbers? I think you can re-coop some money doing that. You can surely get more than if you wait for it to spin a bearing or throw a rod. That's almost a certain outcome if you're burning that much. All it takes is a run to the grocery store without checking the oil on the way back...
If you go that route, you can make back some money to buy a new-to-you F series. I bet the F series engines will go up in price in the coming years and make them more unattainable. Finding one will surely be more difficult, especially unmolested at reasonable miles.
The other option is to spend more now and hedge against the future with a K-Swap. K-swap will cost more up front but next engine will be easier to source and cheaper. This route also probably doesn't make sense for an otherwise stock car.
I don't see why an SUV is totally necessary but I do love having an SUV and the s2k. If that's what you want, sell the TSX and look for an SUV in budget. I don't see how these two are related unless you want to sell the S2k and TSX to buy a nicer SUV. That's related but a completely separate discussion.
I found that once I became a parent, the compromises that life required of me were greater, yet also easier to accept. That said, if a person can find a way to take care of the needs of their family while still hanging on to a toy like a sports car then more power to them. Good luck to you @APjuan S2K , whatever you decide to do. If you enjoy being a parent as much as I have then you'll likely end up seeing this sort of thing as "the small stuff" that you aren't supposed to sweat in life.
The engine in the car is a F22 block. I’m currently using XL Amsoil 10w30. I assume I can make the TSX work for the meantime and I don’t need an SUV sooner than I thought. Just wanted to get an SUV maybe if I sold the S2K. S2K is a 2005 with 106k miles and it has a couple of mods on it like exhaust, CAI, Springs etc. The compression on the car when I got it was about 210 and I got it back in February this year. I would rather just source another F series engine if I ended keeping this S2K. TSX is about to get paid off next month so that’s one less car I have to worry about payments for. Currently paying $240 for the S2K monthly. Am I protected under California lemon law if I bought the car back in February of a private seller? Thank you for all the help guys!
I'd quantify how much oil its burning.
Then find out why.
It may not even be burning oil. Is it leaking?
After you have all the info...make a decision or ask for advice.
Currently, you don't know how much oil its losing or why it's losing oil. Or if anything else is wrong.
Tips:
-Engine rebuilds don't work on F20/22's
-A used F22 longblock is currently $3500-5K+. So make sure you need a longblock before sourcing one.
Then find out why.
It may not even be burning oil. Is it leaking?
After you have all the info...make a decision or ask for advice.
Currently, you don't know how much oil its losing or why it's losing oil. Or if anything else is wrong.
Tips:
-Engine rebuilds don't work on F20/22's
-A used F22 longblock is currently $3500-5K+. So make sure you need a longblock before sourcing one.
Why dont rebuilds work on f series? I think it sounds like he needs the engine refreshed rather than rebuilt.
If you want to keep it long term, want to build for reliability, and want to keep it the same, try to find a new-in-box OE short block. They can still be found if you dig around, going rate is around 6-7k.
Otherwise, I would get rid of it to someone who wants to motor swap it, or build it for boost.
Otherwise, I would get rid of it to someone who wants to motor swap it, or build it for boost.
I have run AmsOil in my previous AP1 and current AP2 for the past 5 years combined with minimal oil burning. That isn't the issue. I'd defer to someone more knowledgeable than me as to what burning oil in VTEC could indicate. I've heard that usually indicates rings but feel like that's second hand knowledge from some of the old civic forums (Not the most trustworthy bunch). I tend to worry a lot about my cars, especially when they're new to me. Any chance you're drastically overrating the amount of oil burned? Like, any chance you drove for 2k miles without checking it and didn't realize how low you were before filling it and beginning this test?
I still think a compression, leakdown, and oil analysis would go a long way here. With your stated burning amounts, I'd be scared to drive it without checking those things let alone going into VTEC. 3+ qts in 500 miles indicates a very unhealthy engine IMO. These can burn some oil but at that rate, you're literally going from full on the dipstick to below low within a tank of gas. I'm sure your rear bumper is full of soot.
Rebuilds "not working" is not a tremendously accurate statement. It's decent advice but an oversimplification. No rebuilder has the reputation that an OEM Honda engine does and generally, rebuilds do not seem to last 100k+ miles. Granted, there is a small sample size and most rebuilt engines aren't in OEM cars and most don't have the same use case as OEM cars. By that, I just mean that most rebuilds are hit with boost and/or tracked. Since the reliability has been so high in these cars, I don't believe there's been much of a demand for a stock power, stock reliability rebuild. I know people will debate me on that but I'd bet more engines have been built for boost or stroked than there have been stock cars that have blown engines and need replaced. All that being said, if your use case is driving a stock car on the street, I'd put my money on an OEM block. For my wallet's sake, I'd probably try to find an F22 with 50k miles and good tests from a reputable seller. Little risky but good luck tracking down a new block and it'll cost you 2 used engines. Unless your car is absolutely pristine, I don't see that as making sense.
I still think a compression, leakdown, and oil analysis would go a long way here. With your stated burning amounts, I'd be scared to drive it without checking those things let alone going into VTEC. 3+ qts in 500 miles indicates a very unhealthy engine IMO. These can burn some oil but at that rate, you're literally going from full on the dipstick to below low within a tank of gas. I'm sure your rear bumper is full of soot.
Rebuilds "not working" is not a tremendously accurate statement. It's decent advice but an oversimplification. No rebuilder has the reputation that an OEM Honda engine does and generally, rebuilds do not seem to last 100k+ miles. Granted, there is a small sample size and most rebuilt engines aren't in OEM cars and most don't have the same use case as OEM cars. By that, I just mean that most rebuilds are hit with boost and/or tracked. Since the reliability has been so high in these cars, I don't believe there's been much of a demand for a stock power, stock reliability rebuild. I know people will debate me on that but I'd bet more engines have been built for boost or stroked than there have been stock cars that have blown engines and need replaced. All that being said, if your use case is driving a stock car on the street, I'd put my money on an OEM block. For my wallet's sake, I'd probably try to find an F22 with 50k miles and good tests from a reputable seller. Little risky but good luck tracking down a new block and it'll cost you 2 used engines. Unless your car is absolutely pristine, I don't see that as making sense.
Personally I would not rebuild the bottom end of one of these engines. If I was in that situation I would buy a good used engine and sell the bad engine for whatever I could get after full disclosure. I wouldn't make a decision what to do until I had diagnosed the problem.












