Contact dhess from Brisbane. He is referenced above. He has engaged a barrister to get HA to change their tune. dhess is still active on this board. I believe he posted today or yesterday. You might also look on the Australia/New Zealand special forum.

 

There are now at least two catastrophic failures among the factory engines with the updated oil jet bolts. su701, a late model 2002 and KewlWhip, with a MY03. Both failed at very low miles.

 

>>>toofast4u just posted pictures from his failed engine. AHM didn't give him a warranty repair because AHM claimed low oil. He was down 1.5 quarts.<<<

If you're too low on oil, the first thing to give in is classicaly the rod bearings, followed by the mains. The top end and pistons/cylinder walls fail from the lack of lubrication much later than pressure fed bottom end bearings. In a way the bottom end bearings act like a fuse for the other stuff. Looks to me like an attempt to find something, ANYTHING below spec and then deny coveage based on that.

Stan

 

>>It sounds to me like she has a typical #4 cylinder scoring failure. If this is true, I'm surprised she's not getting a warranty repair automatically, without delay or question. Instead, she's being blamed for over-revving when she did no such thing and she is the only owner and driver of her car. Why would she get bent valves in #3 and #4 without over-revving, which she didn't do?<<

If it was overrevving, the top end would tend to get hurt - bent valves and such. But the bottom end may survive. It certainly won't develop the cylinder wall scuff problem from an overrev. That's more likely a piston / cylinder / lube / cooling related thing. Factors such as metallurgy, tribology, material compatibility may be the issue. Why only number 4? Something is different about what that hole experiences compared to the others.

Is this "overrev" clearly attributable to driver error? Since there are also unrelated cylinder 4 issues it seem to me that at worst Honda should cover all labor and parts related to short block replacement. And the customer: parts cost for the head only and / or any head related repairs such as new valves if it's their fault. No r/r cost for the head removal and reinstall since that has to be done for short block replacement anyway.

Stan

 

different noise
well as we all know i have that wonderful knocking coming from my engine. i was lead to believe it may be a blown cylinder as the s2k is known for. but i have one quick question. For those folks whom did come accross the scouring cylinders did you notice black smoke or any type of bypassed oil burnage or smell? I am not getting any of this. It would seem with a problem such as a scoured cylinder wall would let some type of different emission. The ticking is rather loud so its not like its hardly there. It is coming from the front left side of the block. Another question, has anyone come accross different issues when it comes to knocking.?? thanks

-dave

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by loving_my_S2K
[B]... For those folks whom did come accross the scouring cylinders did you notice black smoke or any type of bypassed oil burnage or smell?

 

I own a 2002 S2000 (delivered new, with 91 miles, late Sept. '02), with 15,306 miles, that developed a buzzing noise this weekend. I delivered it to the dealer today to be evaluated. The dealer first dismissed the problem as a possible exhaust leak, and looked up the TSB about clutch problems in early models. But, once I started the car in the parking lot, I made the service writer ride with me to hear it. The noise went away after we stopped and popped the hood for a listen, but luckily, it was audible when we drove around.

I believe that I have the possibility of this failure, but the noise in my car is more of a "buzzing" than a "tapping". I have used Mobil 1, and changed the oil every 3,000 miles.

As a former '93 RX-7 twin turbo owner who lost over $20,000 in a year and a half <BOYCOTT MAZDA!!!>, I now know the value of thorough documentation, as well as the knowledge of other reported cases. Thanks for all of your posts!

I returned to the dealer to get my engine number to see if it falls after the change, and sure enough... #1028710. I will keep everyone posted.

DAY 2 at the dealer: The service manager stated that the sound appears to be coming from the valves, not the block. They are planning to adjust the valves on day 3.

 

wait so let me get this straight. Honda actually issued documentation in regards to the scoring issue stating that Engines made before this time actually are succeptable to the scoring and they are offereing to fix it ?????

 

No, thats not what I meant. The information posted by others on this site prompted me to take the slight noise more seriously. My motor number falls within the oil plug update range, and has a yet to be located noise from the motor. I am keeping thorough documentation and notes about this particular problem with my car, in case my car does have the problem discussed in this thread. I was left high and dry by Mazda, because of one of their defects, that they refused to correct. This is my fifth, and surely not my last, Honda vehicle. This is the first non-wear problem that I have ever had with a Honda. I am confident that Honda will correct this problem, and return my car so I can enjoy this great spring weather.

 

Mike,

I'm not sure you read the information correctly. From what I understand, your engine number comes after the point when Honda presumably swapped over to new four-port banjo bolts.

Not that the bolts are correlated to #4 cylinder scoring, mind you.

BTW, why did your car have 91 miles on it when delivered new. That's quite high. Was it a demo?