Hi all,

I have a engine noise that while normal and impossible to find is driving me a little crazy. I've spent lots of time money and parts chasing it down to no avail. Decided to just cover it up and am thinking about some sound insulation material on the floor.

Everyone ever tried this? Who?

Is it possible to get insulation thick enough to block sound and not cause problems with the carpet?

Thanks for the help

 

bump...

 

So you want to cover up an engine noise because you can't diagnose the problem? I hope it isn't a serious problem.

To answer your question, it is possible to add insulation, but i would try to find the thinnest insulation i could find. I am not sure if dynomat keeps sound out or not, but if it does that would be perfect. Here is some pics of my car while doing a carpet swap, It will give you an idea of what your up against.




I would focus on the transmission tunnel mainly because that is prob where most of the sound is coming through

 

There's a roofing product you may want to check out that's basically dynamat without the markup called "peel and seal". I would really like to know how this turns out in an S2k

 

The best way to add sound insulation is to add mass. So anything you add that can make a significant difference will require excessive mass.

http://acoustic.rockwool-marine.com/sw98684.asp

So its up to you....why do you think Honda never bothered to put any sound deadening in? It would have added too much mass so they definitely tried to save weight where possible.

 

normal yet impossible to find? What do you mean. What's the noise

 

Peel n Seal smells to all hell, it's tar based.

besides, mass-loading dampening like dynamat doesn't absorb sound, it makes panels heavier so they rattle/resonate at a lower frequency.

try something with a rubber/vinyl layer... b-quiet v or l-comp comes to mind

http://www.b-quiet.com/

 

The biggest area of noise for me comes from the rear wheel wells. If you jack up the car and look in front of the rear wheel wells, you'll see a section of the body that has no insulation.

I've used the following before with great results: Quitecar I used it under the seats, behind the seats, and in the trunk of my MSM (Mazdaspeed Mx-5). 2-3 coats worked exactly as stated on the website.

I plan on trying out the same material or something similar in the rear wheel well areas where there isn't insulation.

-Lee

 

Here is a thread dealing with drone control, lots of links.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=275932


Here is a link to a sounddeadening comparison...good info.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

I just finished sound deadening my entire car (ap1 02) using 50sq feet of B-Quiet ultimate, that would be both floorpans, transmission tunnel, console, gas tank, spare tire area, wheel wells, both doors, and the trunk.

I put about 4 layers of the stuff on the passenger floorpan area and about 5 on the wheelwell/spare tire area, and two in the trunk.

I have the spugen dual ovals with round tips, stock cat.

The original drone comes in around 2.5k rpm all the way to 4.5/5k. On deceleration in gear the entire cabin shook. My girlfriend is about to rip my arms off and will never ride in the car again unless I either go back to stock or do something about the noise so I bought the deadener.

10 hours later, a tweaked back and some cursing at stupid plastic never-meant-to-be-pulled-out-ever-again clips, I would say the droning sound is deadened... by about 30% in the 2k-3.5k range and less than 10% if any from 3.5 to 5k.

It now drones from 3k rpm to 4.5k rpm, pretty much just as loud (A little bit of the edge taken off) and I am not that happy with it.

The stuff I put on the doors did a lot of wonder, Ive got more bass in the cabin along with my infiniti basslink to back it up.

Overall I think the drone-canceling ability of these products in our cars is kinda overrated. I expected it to deaden the drone by at least 30-40%. (Yes I realize it should not SOUND insulate but rather add mass to resonant metal and change its resonant characteristics out of that frequency range) From rapping on the metal, it seems it should have, as the steel drum that is the spare tire compartment had a much more satisfying thwack to it after 5 layers of the stuff.

Someone please tell me what I did wrong or if I am just out of luck.
Btw 50sq feet cost me 133 bucks or so. Also, four layers in the passenger side compartment required some hammering and flattening of the stuff to get the rear seat bolts to reach.

Thanks