I think I can beat them all - totally useless seat back pocket.

 

I would disagree with those who have said that Voodoo knobs, Muz knobs and other countersunk lower shifter knobs do not increase performance. For some of you, your body dimensions may be such that the stock shifter knob height may be right. For others of us whose shoulder point is lower and arms are shorter, stock is a bit too tall for us to use it correctly , and to feel the centering spring that tells us we are between 3rd and 4th, and thereby tells us where to go from there.

As a short guy, with a low shoulder point, the stock knob height was just too high for me to be comfortable with it, and for me to feel the centering spring. So, I couldn't drive the s2k to its full potential for fear of the dreaded overrev problem from getting in a gear lower than intended. I got a Voodoo, and lowered it even more by cutting off part of the lower shank of the knob, and cutting off a bit of the shifter stalk. I have not missed a gear since.

Remember that , with an s2k, the DRIVER is part of the performance package. If the car does not fit the driver, performance will suffer. So, for some of us, these lower knobs help us relate to our car better. Maybe the best performance enhancement of all.

Also, I know intakes are controversial. IMO, the s2k stock intake is a design defect because it draws in only air that has been heated by the air passing through the radiator and engine heat, and because it provides only about a 7 sq. in. cross section of intake area (at the point where the stock horn enters the stock air box). IMO, ANY intake mod that provides air from an area not heated by radiator back-flow or engine heat AND provides for more than the stock 7 sq. in. cross section of intake area IS an improvement. Clearly, not all so-called CAIs meet this requirement. A local mod shop wanted to sell me a "CAI" that hung the filter/intake point low on the driver's side of the engine bay. For a test, I hung a cheap thermometer at the point where the air would be "intaked" and drove for about two miles on a day when it was 60 degrees outside. The thermometer broke at 130 degrees! CAI my ass. But some CAIs do their job much better than this, and I've got one of them with which I am very happy. Ive got an AUT rad plate and CAI, a fabricated scoop behind the grill that "rams air" into the intake of the AUT, a gutted and insulated stock air box, and a 3" rubber pipe running out of the pax side of the box to the hole in the pax side of the fender well. Less than $200 mod, better pre-VETEC acceleration, and 2 more mpg city and highway.

Thanks,
Richard

 

[QUOTE=dolebludger,Apr 28 2006, 08:36 PM] I would disagree with those who have said that Voodoo knobs, Muz knobs and other countersunk lower shifter knobs do not increase performance. For some of you, your body dimensions may be such that the stock shifter knob height may be right. For others of us whose shoulder point is lower and arms are shorter, stock is a bit too tall for us to use it correctly , and to feel the centering spring that tells us we are between 3rd and 4th, and thereby tells us where to go from there.

As a short guy, with a low shoulder point, the stock knob height was just too high for me to be comfortable with it, and for me to feel the centering spring. So, I couldn't drive the s2k to its full potential for fear of the dreaded overrev problem from getting in a gear lower than intended. I got a Voodoo, and lowered it even more by cutting off part of the lower shank of the knob, and cutting off a bit of the shifter stalk. I have not missed a gear since.

Remember that , with an s2k, the DRIVER is part of the performance package. If the car does not fit the driver, performance will suffer. So, for some of us, these lower knobs help us relate to our car better. Maybe the best performance enhancement of all.

Also, I know intakes are controversial. IMO, the s2k stock intake is a design defect because it draws in only air that has been heated by the air passing through the radiator and engine heat, and because it provides only about a 7 sq. in. cross section of intake area (at the point where the stock horn enters the stock air box). IMO, ANY intake mod that provides air from an area not heated by radiator back-flow or engine heat AND provides for more than the stock 7 sq. in. cross section of intake area IS an improvement.

 

Sir:

The only aluminum I have in my intake system is the fabricated air scoop from the bottom of the grill to the intake of the AUT. And it is painted black so it's not even seen except by someone crawling on the ground. (It's sort of like a "super Spoon:") Other than that, there is no aluminum involved in my intake. Here's a link to my intake mods:https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=365455

As to the shorter shifter, it's simply a matter of the car has to fit the driver.

Thanks,
Richard

 

Oh, please read my post again, i didn't say your nor i claim anything is wrong with your design.

and about the shifter, it's a matter of personal perferrence

 

i dont have a Time reader in my car, so i was htinking of geting this simple "MOD"

 

I wouldn't say that cooling mods are waste of money. Unless you have objective evidence i.e. a dyno that shows HP loss, I'd chalk this up to (1) improper installation (2) poor product choice (3) overall bad experiece.
I installed the Hondata gasket and ALL mugen cooling mods and have had zero, none, nada.. problems with heat bog. Did it increase HP...dunno, didn't dyno. BUT, I have not had one issue with heat bog, which I had all the time prior to the mods.
The deal is, you have to install all the mods (T-stat, fanswitch, Rad cap) to get the best results. If not, it is a half ass job and you will get half-ass results.

 

Useless,but looking gooood.!!!

 

I'm watching you.

 

I should like to briefly and respectfully diasgree with statements to the effect that "air scoops" "Spoons" and the like do not lead to any "ram air" or compression above ambient in a sealed air box. The statement made on this and other threads goes on to say that it is impossible to compress air without a "mechanical device' (supercharger or turbocharger). Indeed, the moving car itself is the "mechanical device" that drives the rushing air into the scoop or snorkle. In the past, both MoPar and GM vehicles have offered "ram air" scoops and systems as options --- generally with the claim of 10 - 15 more hp.

And I have a bit of "accidental proof" that capturing some of the air resistance of a moving vehilce for blowing into an airbox DOES increase the air pressure in the box over ambient. My intake system employs and AUT sealed into the sealed airbox, with a "scoop" between the grill and the AUT intake to force air from the moving car into the air box. The AUT by itself produces no ram, air. My device also employs a secondary source of cool air for when the car isn't moving, or isn't moving very fast, in the form af a 3" side pipe from the pax side of the box into the pax side of the fender well. To prevent the escape of any "ram air" at speed, I installed a flapper valve in the box over the opening to this "sidepipe" to prevent the escape of "rammed air." The valve closes when the pressure in the air box exceeds the suction of the intake through the filter. In my first build of this flapper valve, I used material that was too thin and flimsy. After an 80 mph cruise, I opened the air box to see how things had fared. I discovered that the pressure in the box had deformed the flapper valve, and blown it well into the side pipe. Clearly, some force had deformed the flapper valve and had driven it into the side pipe. And the only force that was available was "ram air."

To be very clear, no factory of non-factory "ram air" set-up is (or has ever been) a substitute for a "super or a "turbo." These latter devices produce 10 -20 lbs of pressure over ambient -- depending on model and set up. A ram air system is doing well to produce 2 lbs over ambient. And usually a handfull of additional hp and/or torque, which can't be measure by stationary dyno (the car has to be moving rather quickly to produce it). Not as good as a super or a turbo, but at about 5% of the cost. And (as in my case) the air that is "rammed" is cool rather than hot, it's a double benefit.

Thanks,
Richard

Thanks,
Richard