He didn't think he needed to warm up the ECU, he just had a question about whether it should be reset after some mods. It just looked like he was asking that. I think the title was just an English as second language thing. I'm confident that he speaks English far better than most of us speak Turkish.

 

Priceless....

 

I found out the hard way today, that even three bars doesn't insure you that the vtech will kick in. I reved it up when I had three bars on the temp gauge, and at 6.5k the engine sputtered and cut out. After crying for a few hours, I decided to wait a little longer before tearing into the vtech. I have also noticed that the bars make an almost sudden jump from 3 to ~8, at least in my living conditions from the two days that I have had my car. Thanks for all the good info!

 

It certainly won't 'hurt' the car by letting it idle for a minute or two before driving it off. I also own a carbed bike, so I understand both situations.

However, it may not be a terrible idea, depending on the temperature, to let the car idle 30-60+ seconds before taking off. This doesn't have anything to do with fuel injected or carbed, just a matter of letting the metals heat up and expand more gently.

If it is near room temp outside [or above obviously], but all means start driving after the engine is started and just keep the revs reasonable for a couple minutes.

However, if it is near freezing or below, it is not a bad idea to let the car idle for a minute or two. Honda says this is not needed, so what do I know. I do know the engine is all aluminum, so that helps decrease risks of metals expanding at different rates to cause HG problems or the like. On some of my previous turbo cars with iron blocks and aluminum heads, you have to be a bit more careful warming it up.

Then again, there is obviously SOME risk or they wouldn't stop the revs while the engine is cold, even when it is hot outside. So where do you draw the line? -30 degrees and just drive it as hard as possible without going high enough to hit engine cut? Doesn't make sense.

Lastly, how many people realistically drive s2000's in near freezing conditions? So for many this is totally irrevalent anyhow.

As to the engine warming up 'better', that is very vague. Do you mean faster? If so, that is correct. It also provides some cooling to the engine at the same time through incoming air. However, it is gentler on the expanding metallic elements of the engine to warm it up through the least aggressive methods possible if it is very cold, through idling it.

 

We must apologize for using the term "3-bars". It's mostly by those of us who have been here a long time. "3-bars" ONLY pertains to AP1 cars. The AP2 cars have a different bar representation on their coolant temp gauges. You must determine what your own "3-bars" equivalent is. The coolant temp hasn't changed, just the way it is represented on the gauge.

 

Cool, thank you much!